Day 8. Gaukheihytta weather and rest day
Posted by: James on January 8, 2009Distance 0km | Time 0hrs | Ascent 0m | Descent 0m
The other 3 were up at 0700 and I followed them. The hardly believable forecast that the dry, crisp, clear minus 14 of last night would deteriorate to a mild zero with strong winds and a frequent snow showers seems to have come true.
Snow swirled around the lodge and it did not look very inviting outside in the pitch dark. The others ventured out for various tasks and came in covered in mild spindrift.
They were returning to their daily lives and appointments, but I had no urgency. I had done well in the past week to get here and thought my body, especially legs and hips, needed a day of rest and food to build up worn fabric again.
We said our goodbyes at 0800 and I returned to my bag and listened to the wind. It was great to have a day off. I spent it pouring over the route north to Finse on the north side of Hardangerviddda, still some 3 weeks away. I had been so rushed in preparation for this trip I had not really had time to do this before.
It seemed there were a string of some 13 self service cabins along the best route so I would not have to take too many provisions. The snow conditions could be difficult as there were about 5 days of mild snowy weather forecast. At least the heavy wet snow would not drift. Unless it froze into harder snow or neve, it would be demanding to plough through.
I also had the time to read a little about Gaukheihytta lodge. It was first built in 1868 and has been serving walkers, skiers, fishermen, and those looking after the animals on the summer farms in the surrounding mountains here, for over 140 years. The original lodge still forms the core of the buildings.
During this time it has had a number of hosts, who spent Easter and the summer looking after and feeding guests. In the early days the lodge was supplied by horse and sledge, but in the 1970’s this was replaced by snow scooter and a freight sledge. Wood, food, vegetables, paraffin, lamp oil, would all have to be brought in. The surrounding summer farms would supply some dairy produce in the summer months.
Gaukheihytta lodge lies on the southern edge of a huge plateau, scoured by ice sheets until recently. The area is riddled with small lakes in the hollows between granite outcrops covered in hardy, twisted mountain birch and juniper. It seems remarkable life survives here in the winter, but fish thrive under the winter’s ice and ptarmigan flourish on residual buds and berries.
It was a well spent day recuperating and relaxing in historic surroundings with the comfort of a stove and larder. In addition I had a good supply of books to browse on various areas in Norway.