Ski and Paddle Norway 2009

Distance 19km | Time 8.5hrs | Ascent 470m | Descent 570m

I looked out of the window about 0600 and for the first time since putting my skis on in Ljosland ages ago, I saw stars. At last maybe the weather was on the change. By the time I left at 0830 the weather was changing for the windy whitness I was getting used to.

Within a half km of leaving the cabin I knew I was in for a hard day and that I would be lucky to reach Haukeliseter lodge without camping. I was wading through a half metre of soft snow, it was even slow going back down to Holmavatnet lake.

Once on the lake luckily the snow was more windblown and less airy, and therefore firmer. I skiied to the north corner where there were a few private fishing and hunting cabins owned by locals. One of these cabins just had the eves and chimney poking out of the snow.

There was a problem free short climb up to the next lake and I was lucky to pick an easy route. Occasionally it brightened up enough to see a km or two. Looking back at my lonely tracks I surveyed the hills. In some 40 ski trips in Scandinavia I don’t think I have ever see so much snow.

On crossing the second lake the weather deteriorated and I could not make out where I was to go so out came the compass. I reached the north shore and picked my way from boulder to boulder up it. The descent to Ingelsvatn lake however was difficult as the visibility was about 2 metres. I shuffled along in my skis barely making progress. Occasionally I would spot a rare boulder and using it as a reference make for it. After an hour I had made the km down to the level lake.

Crossing this last lake was relatively easy as I followed the shoreline with its numerous reference points. At the north point of the lake I descended down into a wide valley with a tarn in it. Again the visibility was terrible and the wind a good force 6.

At last, once I had descended a couple of hundred metres did the visibility improve. I then had a very pleasant gentle descent down a series of soft snow-filled smaller valleys and gullies until at last I made it right down beyond the tree line and onto Kjelavatn lake. Only now was I confident I would make the lodge. But it was already 1500 and I still had 7 km to go.

It was very heavy heavy work ploughing a furrow through the deep snow, first across the lake and up a frozen inlet, and then across frozen swampy forest which was open and therefore somewhat compact.

I still had to climb a small rise to the next lake when I came across a line of twigs. These twigs or branches are stuck into the snow usually later in the ski touring season as route markers. They are about 30 metres apart. In the immeadiate vicinity around Haukeliseter they must be put out earlier to cater for the odd hardcore holiday ski tourer.

It was about dark now but it was easy to follow the twigs for the last 2 km to the lodge in the twighlight. I got to the lodge about 1700. I was tired and soaking with spindrift and sweat. My clothes stunk. I had had them on for the last 16 days. Yet within an hour I had peeled them off and was shaving in the shower.

After a hefty meal I socialized for a good few hours with a very nice group of “kiters”. Haukeliseter is a Mecca for young kiters to come up and snowboard across the frozen lake being pulled by up to 15 square metres of kite. During this my phone was charged by the very helpful reception. It had a good vibe did Haukeliseter.

It was yet another hard day, made more so possibily by the deadline of darkness. Still I had made it without camping and had a very comfortable evening for my efforts. I had decided to take tomorrow off to wash clothes, eat, and socialise a bit after 2 weeks without seeing anyone.

This entry was posted on Thursday, January 22nd, 2009 at 5:13 pm and is filed under Update. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. Both comments and pings are currently closed.