Ski and Paddle Norway 2009

Distance 29km | Time 8.5hrs | Ascent 330m | Descent 590m

It was a cold, crystal clear and crisp morning when I set off after a very good traditional Norwegian breakfast. The mercury was minus 23. I was a bit late as I had email problems regarding a rucksack stuck in customs.

Initially I crossed Sjodalsvatnet lake to the east side, where apparently there were some ski trails. I found them and they were very good. I followed them north past a few cabins whose roofs were thick with snow. The occasional pine tree added some green to the otherwise dark birch forest. Much was still in the shade but in the sun everything shone.

I skied along the trail to the north of the lake. The pine were becoming more plentiful now and the sun higher. The landscape was looking like a postcard. I passed many more cabins, some over 100 years old and others more modern, but traditional.

At the north end of this lake I crossed the snow covered and deserted main road and climbed up to a collection of summer farms unmatched for their idyllic setting. These summer farms are still working and are run by farmers from Vaga. They are 2 days walk from Vaga and the animals stay up here until the late autumn before they return to the valley.

For this reason the summer farms are substantial and the barns have haylofts to feed the animals in the autumn before they return. These summer farms are centuries old. They are well preserved because of the good quality pine logs, a dry climate in the rain shadow of Jotunheimen and the usual Norwegian attention to detail on maintenance matters.

From these idyllic farms there was a beautiful prepared trail through pine forests to a lovely old tourist lodge surrounded by more gorgeous summer farms. This tourist lodge, Hindseter, had prepared the ski trails in both directions from the lodge.

Hindseter lodge, a 110 year old summer farm, seemed extremely well run and maintained. It was upmarket, but was busy with upmarket guests who were enjoying the trails the owners made daily.

After a coffee at Hindseter I continued north along the very beautiful Sjodalen valley in glourious sunshine. Th pines glowed against the white snow. I was skiing through a postcard in delightful terrain.

After crossing a old log bridge the trail ended and I headed down to the snow covered main road. Moose tracks were everywhere as they sought out buds and bark from birch trees.

Once on the main road I skied down it for some 10 km. Only in Norway could I push myself with the poles down the middle of a national road. On some down hill sections was going a good 20 km per hour.

It was getting late but I already had a tiny timber cabin booked at Randsverk. The owner was away but the key was in the door and the electric heater on.

Just before Randsverk a couple of moose crossed the road in front of me. They lumbered off into the pine forest sinking deep in the snow on long ungainly legs designed to move in deep snow. I have not seen many moose so was excited at this.

At dusk I reached Randsverk. It was another collection of summer and autumn farms. Every farm had a few buildings. They were made out of big timbers, darkened with age and the sun. The houses smelt of ancient wood which had been preserved with Stockholm tar, a natural protective coating. Randsverk was a living museum.

I found my cabin in the camp ground and it was as expected and warm. I made myself at home and wrote the blog. I hope the owner will return some I can buy some dinner, rather than eat the less savoury food I carry.

It was bitterly cold outside, by 1930 it was already minus 21 and it would get much colder yet. A huge full moon was just rising up through the pines. It had been a magnificent day, one of the best so far. While the weather had much to contribute, it was also nice to be in the pine forest after 5 weeks of snow covered barren mountain wilderness. There I was almost constantly well above the treeline of 1000 metres.

This entry was posted on Tuesday, February 10th, 2009 at 6:55 pm and is filed under Update. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. Both comments and pings are currently closed.