Day 20. Bleskestadmoen to Holmavasshytta
Posted by: James on January 20, 2009Distance 14km | Time 7hrs | Ascent 510m | Descent 110m
When I woke in the morning there was still quite a strong wind and it was snowing heavily. My body was tired after yesterday and I decided to have a weather day. As the morning wore on however I was getting bored and the weather was improving. At 1030 the two trends crossed each other and I decided to make a break for it.
I eventually left at 1100. Much to late really but I thought I could make it. At least I could home in to the cabin with head torch and GPS as I did last night.
Crossing the open area by the summer farms I was saddened by the loss of this idyllic way of life. Soon though I was into the birch forest and any nostalgic thoughts of bygone times soon vanished in pushing my way through deep snow.
The journey up through the forest was only about 4 km yet it took nearly 3 hours. The snow was deep and the terrain steep and gnarly. Drifts were everywhere and bogged me down. I tried to follow a stream but it kept leading me into a dead end of a small frozen waterfall. After much sweat and effort I eventually climbed out of it onto the easier bare mountainside where the snow was firmer.
On reaching Sandvatnet lake the visibility was poor so I followed its frozen shore. Soon the sun came out however and lit up the mountains. I have seldom seen so much snow. The mountains were coated and dripping in it. It was a very easy pleasant ski across the lake.
Towards the north of the lake I crossed it and headed up Naustdalen. It was not long but quite steep and narrow. To make it worse there was a big open stream running at the bottom of the V shaped floor where I wanted to be.
After climbing up the lower half of the valley with some difficulty I reached a frozen tarn and gingerly crossed to the west side. This was less steep and avalanche prone. I went quite high to avoid the slot of the stream and for once it did lead into any difficulty, like steep corniced drifts. Soon I was at Holmavatnet lake, the home stretch.
On the other side of this lake there are remains of hunters camps which are 8000 years old. These wild stone age nomads must have come up here in the summer months to hunt reindeer and fish.
I just had to ski some 3 km along the frozen shoreline to the cabin. But it was already getting dark. Wth a km to go I got the headtourch out and using the GPS homed in on the cabin. It took a while but I got there at 1800.
There were 2 cabins. One small one without provisions but with wood and a large stove and a larger cabin which was half buried in snow. The latter looked much more comfortable and had a larder but I would have been digging a good hour to clear the snow, so opted for the smaller one.
Within an hour it was like a sauna. I had melted enough snow for water and basked in the warmth. Dinner was some dried food I had been carrying all the time in case I had to camp.
It had been a good descision to go when I did from Bleskestadmoen. Had I stayed I would have kicking myself when it brightened up in the afternoon. Despite the ardours of the forest I had a good day, especially the rare treat of skiing across the lake in the sun surrounded by mountains so heavily covered in snow.
Tomorrow weather permitting I reach Haukeliseter. This marks the end of the second section, the Setersheiene mountains. They are renouned for fickle weather and difficult terrain. The next section is Hardangervidda. A huge undulating plateau at around 1000 meters. It finishes at Finse and should take a week.