Ski and Paddle Norway 2009

Distance 6km | Time 3.5hrs | Ascent 270m | Descent 60m

It was snowing heavily when I got up at 0800. It would just have to be half a day to Storevatn, as Kringlevatn involved an exposed pass and the visibility would be terrible and the wind quite strong.

I had a relaxing breakfast with the two others and we all set off about 1000. It was still snowing heavily when I left and the temperature was just above zero. There was apparently a queue of low pressures waiting to hit southern Norway over the next few days.

The wind was less than forecast and the snow was settling everywhere. As I skied up through the birch forest it was a very wintery scene with the bare twisted branches thick with new snow.

I slowly weaved my way through the birch trees as I made for a pass at the south end of Storevatn. The going was slow as the snow was 20 cm deep and it kept clumping up under my skins and even freezing to the rest of the ski. The great clods which formed had to be beaten off regularly. Still the winter’s postcard scene more than made up for it.

By the time I climbed the pass to the south end of the Storevatn lake the wind had increased significantly and visibility was down to about 100 metres At least the weather, which was almost a blizzard, was directly behind me

I gingerly made my way over the lake for 2 km until out of the whiteness the cabin emerged. It was a very unusual cabin and was covered in galvanized plates. It was freezing inside literally, and I soon had the stove going. Within 2 hours it had warmed up.

I was glad I did not attempt the pass as the visibility was dreadful. Once on the north side of this pass it was open country to the next cabin and navigation would have been extreme. Indeed I would not have been able to see the snow in front of me without throwing snowballs ahead as markers.

The cabin at Storevatn was once part of a huge estate. A Mr Heiberg bought a lot of this mountain plateau some 100 years ago. On it he build some 30 hunting cabins. Then he charged rich Europeans to come and hunt wild reindeer on it.  Storevatn is one such cabin.

The intention was not just carnage for the gentry, but Heilberg also introduced a benevolent system of wildlife management and preservation. However with the outbreak of the second world war the clients dried up and Heiberg was forced to sell to the state who maintain it to this day.

The state has not been a good a custodian as I am sure Heiberg would have liked and allowed the building of 3 huge hydro electric reservoirs in this midst of this land. These reservoirs are very important economically but completely messed up the wild reindeer’s migration routes and calving areas. None the less as long as there is no further encroachment this Heiberg legacy is a very important one to the preservation of the Setersheiene mountains and plateau where I now find myself.

It was a short but quite difficult day. The blizzard gave a taster of what I can expect from time to time on this trip. As least the area here is well peppered with outdoor cabins and if the days are hard, I can just do a half day.

Distance 20km | Time 7hrs | Ascent 370m | Descent 470m

I managed to get up at 0700 and set off by 0830. It was just below freezing in the dawn light. By the time I reached the west end of Oyuvsvatnet lake I could make out the snow clearly.

I climbed the saddle leading over to the next lake called Hohellervatnet. I made heavy work of skiing down to the lake. I was not used to skiing with these skins on and I often broke through the crust.

While crossing the lake I met two very experienced Norwegians. They were preparing for a trip to ski the length of Spitsburgen in a couple of months. One had also skiied Norge po langs 2 years ago. We had a good 10 minute chat.

After Hohellerenvatnet lake the route I chose took me up Ramsdalen valley and down Anlaugdalen valley for a good 10 km. The route followed a string of lakes and ascended to 1050 metres.

These valleys were very barren and thick with snow. The lakes were all frozen.for a good metre. I made slow time along the valley which was misty much of the time. Navigation was difficult as occasionally I could only see 50 metres.

The descents were again tricky now compounded by my tiredness and the lack of definition in the snow.I fell about 5 times and walked one section to save damaging anything in the inevitable fall.

As I descended past some massive craggy buttresses the visibility returned. To the west were lower mountains which were also covered in snow and locked barren. A couple of ravens, always acrobatic, put on a show for me.

Rounding a corner, under a craggy knoll the hut appeared. It was a short ski through the upper birch trees again. The were two others at the cabin. We enjoyed a very sociable evening.

The forecast for the next 3 days was apparently grim however with masses of sleet or snow. There was a hut halfway between here and Kringlevatn called Storevatn. It might be more realistic especially as I was tired.

Yet another good day. Some of the visibility was testing though, and in wintery conditions. The downhill skiing sections frustrated me a bit. All is all it was a good day and this was topped of by good company at the cabin.

Distance 15km | Time 5.5hrs | Ascent 180m | Descent 100m

I got up at 0700 and checked the weather. It was very mild and overcast, but the wind was slight. I had breakfast, filled the wood basket and generally tidied the lodge and set off in the very early dawn at 0830. It was difficult to see where I was going.

I felt my way west across the frozen lake and then turned north west. The snow was very damp and heavy. However, my short skins seemed to be coping well and I was only sinking in some 10 cm.

Heading north west I started up a series of interconnected lakes. At one stage I looked back and the whole sky to the south was ablaze with the sunrise. Its’ orange colours were even reflected in the snow.

I soon reached Sora Monsvatnet lake and skied up it. I crossed the stream which connected these lakes many times. In some places it was open but shallow. As I reached the north end of the lake the mist came down.

I could only see about 50 metres. I soon became disorientated and had to concentrate hard to find my way with the 1:100000 scale map. I even had to get the GPS out to confirm a position once.

Turning north now up Nordre Monsvatnet lake I continued to feel my way north. The mist playing tricks with my vision. I passed some reindeer tracks at the end of this lake.

These reindeer must be part of the wild herd which still roams the Setersheiene, as these mountains are called. This wild herd of a few thousand are remnants of the original herds which migrated here from the Germanic Plains some 10000 years ago as the ice retreated.

I did not take long to cross another two lakes, Sandvatnet and Oyuvsvatnet to reach the cabin. By the time I arrived the weather was much improved again.

This was a cabin rather than a lodge. None the less it had an oven, wood store and self service larder. All this is paid for on a honesty system. It could only work in Norway, and possibly New Zealand’s South Island

The cabin was cold but I soon got the oven fired up and within 2 hours I could take my duvet jacket off. Tinned meatballs, mashed potatoes and a tin of fruit salad rounded of yet another god day.

The snow conditions are very wet at the moment. A good freeze will speed up travel. One is forecast but so is another mild spell. Still I am making quite good progress in the snow so should not complain.

Distance 0km | Time 0hrs | Ascent 0m | Descent 0m

The other 3 were up at 0700 and I followed them. The hardly believable forecast that the dry, crisp, clear minus 14 of last night would deteriorate to a mild zero with strong winds and a frequent snow showers seems to have come true.

Snow swirled around the lodge and it did not look very inviting outside in the pitch dark. The others ventured out for various tasks and came in covered in mild spindrift.

They were returning to their daily lives and appointments, but I had no urgency. I had done well in the past week to get here and thought my body, especially legs and hips, needed a day of rest and food to build up worn fabric again.

We said our goodbyes at 0800 and I returned to my bag and listened to the wind. It was great to have a day off. I spent it pouring over the route north to Finse on the north side of Hardangerviddda, still some 3 weeks away. I had been so rushed in preparation for this trip I had not really had time to do this before.

It seemed there were a string of some 13 self service cabins along the best route so I would not have to take too many provisions. The snow conditions could be difficult as there were about 5 days of mild snowy weather forecast. At least the heavy wet snow would not drift. Unless it froze into harder snow or neve, it would be demanding to plough through.

I also had the time to read a little about Gaukheihytta lodge. It was first built in 1868 and has been serving walkers, skiers, fishermen, and those looking after the animals on the summer farms in the surrounding mountains here, for over 140 years. The original lodge still forms the core of the buildings.

During this time it has had a number of hosts, who spent Easter and the summer looking after and feeding guests. In the early days the lodge was supplied by horse and sledge, but in the 1970’s this was replaced by snow scooter and a freight sledge. Wood, food, vegetables, paraffin, lamp oil, would all have to be brought in. The surrounding summer farms would supply some dairy produce in the summer months.

Gaukheihytta lodge lies on the southern edge of a huge plateau, scoured by ice sheets until recently. The area is riddled with small lakes in the hollows between granite outcrops covered in hardy, twisted mountain birch and juniper. It seems remarkable life survives here in the winter, but fish thrive under the winter’s ice and ptarmigan flourish on residual buds and berries.

It was a well spent day recuperating and relaxing in historic surroundings with the comfort of a stove and larder. In addition I had a good supply of books to browse on various areas in Norway.

Distance 18km | Time 6hrs | Ascent 480m | Descent 180m

After a wonderful breakfast and nice chat with Mikkel I set off quite late at 0930. I followed the road for about a km until a small track headed off to the north. This road was covered in about half a metre of frozen snow.

The track climbed through the trees passing small private cabins for a good 2 km until it arrived at a dam. Aseral kommune or council own a number of dams and it is their main source of income. They store the water until the electricity price is high in Norway or Europe and then open the sluice gates and sell it.

The reservoir behind the dam was frozen to a depth of 40 cm. Enough to drive a car on let alone ski over. I had no hesitation in setting of across it, but just had to exercise caution where streams might flow in.

I quickly skied across the largely bare ice to the far end and then headed up through birch and juniper forest. There were many fox trails and a few ptarmigan signs. Generally the snow was firm. Occasionally yesterday’s snow had blown into soft drifts.

The unmarked virgin route changes between the sparse forest and a row of interconnected lakes. Only occasionally were the deeper drifts a problem. Indeed I felt great. It was a superb cold crisp day, all the equipment was doing exactly what it said on the tin and I was getting used to hard work.

I made good time up to a large lake called Oyarvatnet. Here there was just a few km to go. However there were two short steepish slopes covered in thick soft snow which tested me and especially the short skins under the skis. In fact I spend a good half hour floundering around on each slope.

Soon I was crossing the last lake and rounded an island in it to spot the hut some 500 metres away. It was a gorgeous old log building. Yet still with triple glazed windows, a wood stove and bunk beds. I had a key which was not necessary as the previous clot had left the outer door ajar.

It was minus 4 inside and minus 11 outside. I quickly got a fire going and melted 2 buckets of snow. There was no mobile cover here so set off my tracker device. Then settled down to a tin of peaches from the larder shop.

Amazing there was a noise outside which heralded the arrival of three young Norwegians. I was very surprised to see them as they were me. They turned out to be extremely nice.

With two groups at the hut the fire was well stoked, many candles were lit and it became very welcoming. I wrote the blog then joined in card games.

It had been a marvellous day again. Apart from the two steepish slopes all was as I had hoped and expected with weather, equipment and myself. I looked forward to another 110 days of this, but know there will be harder times.