Ski and Paddle Norway 2009

Distance 27km | Time 7.5hrs | Ascent 1110m | Descent 190m

It took a while to get breakfast started and pack up. At the same time the journalist who interviewed me yesterday for the North Gubrandsdalen paper wanted more photos. Eventually I said my goodbyes and got going at 0930. I had enjoyed the company and with the rest day off and felt pretty good.

I walked the 2 km to Otta and then started up the zig-zag road up to Mysuseter. I met the journalist here and he took some photos with Pillarguri hill in the background. I suspect the article will be as much about the Scottish mercenaries under Sinclair as it will be about the Norge Paa Langs ski trip.

The zig-zags initially went through spruce forest and then pine forest. There were some nice working farms en route but generally the road was not remarkable as it climbed up the valley side.

Eventually it turned east and headed up a spur above the deep Uladalen valley to reach Mysuseter. Mysuseter must once have been a very pretty place and still was to an extent. However there has been a lot of cabin building here over the last 50 years. A lot of this would have been because it was such a lively summer farm centre. The cabins are fine but there is a large parking area, shop, café and accommodation which intrude.

Leaving this service area I quickly climbed through old summer farms and quaint cabins to the treeline. Here a wonderful view of the mountains of Rondane unfolded quickly.

In the mountains of Rondane and eastwards from it, the predominant rock is sparagmite. This a mineral poor sedimentary rock formed in a deep basins or estuary many millions of years ago. It differs from the hard gabbro of Jotunheimen and the tough granites and gniesses of the other areas I have recently skiied through.

Indeed the valley of Gudbrandsdalen was a real divide between not only geology, but also climate and vegetation. East of Gudbrandsdalen valley the climated was far more continental with drier weather but extreme temperatures. The vegetation will now be more dominated by spruce and pine and less so by birch. The great forests of Scandinavian start here. The wildlife will change also. Moose will replace deer. Lynx are more common and the in the summer months rare bears are found in the forests.

From the top of Mysuseter it was an easy 10 km ski across the treeless plateau to the mountain citadel of Rondane. It was a very pleasant and easy ski in the late afternoon. It took about 3 hours from Mysuseter.

I arrived at Rondvassbu lodge which opened for the winter season today just as the sun was setting. This created a rose coloured alpenglow across the snow cover mountains, especially Storronden. It was very pretty and a bit dramatic.

The lodge was comfortable and I was the years first guest. I got a nice simple room and had a delicious meal. The managers were a couple of young lads from Otta. They seemed to cope well with me, the only guest but there will be another 10000 this year.

I wrote the blog after supper but quickly became tired and went to bed early. It had been a very good day. Especially beautiful was the cabins around Mysuseter and the alpenglow of the sunset. The temperature remained around minus 20.

Distance 0km | Time 0hrs | Ascent 0m | Descent 0m

I got up at around 0830 and Hartmut had cooked a sumptuous breakfast. Eggs, bacon, sausages- the full works. Delicious and well appreciated.

After that I was obliged to do yesterdays diary and pictures before the other 2 drove and I walked the km into Otta itself. Ovind, ever the joker, had stencilled “James Baxter Support Team” onto his old Mercedes beside the picture advertising his gallery in Asker. See www.hebbelille.com for a selection of his light-hearted artwork of cartoons and animations.

We did a bit of supermarket shopping and then I went to the library to find out about the masacre of a ragtag army of 320 Scots merceneries here some 400 years ago hired by the Swedish king. This army was led by a Shetlander called Sinclair. All 320 came to grief just south of Otta.

I bought a few food items and a ski wax scraper in an outdoor shop and posted a memory card with photos. I then walked back the km to the cabin outside Otta. Here Ovind and Hartmut started a cloths wash.

In the evening Hartmut cooked another delicious meal of reindeer stew which hit the spot. I then spent ages sorting out my equipment and getting rid of the things I was unlikely to need. I managed to whittle away at least 2 kg.

It had been nice to have a rare unhurried day of social interaction among the weeks of mountain winter wilderness. Well rested and fed again I looked forward to the next stretch through Rondane to Roros.

Distance 37km | Time 9hrs | Ascent 580m | Descent 1100m

It was very cold in the morning, minus 26 to be precise. The air was stinging my face and penetrating my trousers. I said goodbye to the nice couple who ran Randsverk camping and set off up the snow covered road for the 4 km to Lemensjo. It was just after 0800 and very light now.

The road was quite tedious and uphill all the way to Lemonsjo lodge. At the lodge I left the road as advised and headed east to Slomba on prepared tracks. It was fantastic skiing along the easy track amoung pine trees thick with snow.

Slomba itself was a collection of summer farms over looking a lake. It was very pretty and in the bright sun looked idyllic. Just beyond Slomba was the very nice Gronstulen summer farm. The prepared track petered out here but luckily there was still old compacted tracks in the deep snow and other skiiers had been recently.

The track now headed due north over the east shoulder of Graho hill. From the top of the shoulder I was out of the forest and could see over to the white rounded mountains of Rondane. The mountains of the next stage. Stage 6. The view was crystal clear and they were perhaps 40 km away.

From the shoulder I dropped down the other side to Melingen lake. This descent was absolutely enchanting. If yesterday was skiing in a postcard this was skiing through a fairytale. Amongst the pines were numerous old log cabins and summer farms basking in sunny clearings. Across the valley on the south facing side were many more farms with the frozen Melingen lake between. This high hidden valley was a Shangri-la and one of the prettiest sights I have seen in Norway.

Unfortunately the time came to leave the valley when I reached Reiret. I now followed the icy road north into the very cold shade down into the main Ottadalen valley. The road was steep and went through numerous hairpin bends On one of them, quite far down, was a even smaller road which I took.

This smaller road took me past some grand farms and eventually down to the valley floor on the small road which went along the south side of the river Otta. It was in the shade and bitterly cold.

I walked along this road for 15km as there was a lot of grit and gravel in the snow beside the road. It was a change to walk and reminded me of the first days. I rejoiced at how much fitter I am now, as the 15 km was a breeze

Distance 29km | Time 8.5hrs | Ascent 330m | Descent 590m

It was a cold, crystal clear and crisp morning when I set off after a very good traditional Norwegian breakfast. The mercury was minus 23. I was a bit late as I had email problems regarding a rucksack stuck in customs.

Initially I crossed Sjodalsvatnet lake to the east side, where apparently there were some ski trails. I found them and they were very good. I followed them north past a few cabins whose roofs were thick with snow. The occasional pine tree added some green to the otherwise dark birch forest. Much was still in the shade but in the sun everything shone.

I skied along the trail to the north of the lake. The pine were becoming more plentiful now and the sun higher. The landscape was looking like a postcard. I passed many more cabins, some over 100 years old and others more modern, but traditional.

At the north end of this lake I crossed the snow covered and deserted main road and climbed up to a collection of summer farms unmatched for their idyllic setting. These summer farms are still working and are run by farmers from Vaga. They are 2 days walk from Vaga and the animals stay up here until the late autumn before they return to the valley.

For this reason the summer farms are substantial and the barns have haylofts to feed the animals in the autumn before they return. These summer farms are centuries old. They are well preserved because of the good quality pine logs, a dry climate in the rain shadow of Jotunheimen and the usual Norwegian attention to detail on maintenance matters.

From these idyllic farms there was a beautiful prepared trail through pine forests to a lovely old tourist lodge surrounded by more gorgeous summer farms. This tourist lodge, Hindseter, had prepared the ski trails in both directions from the lodge.

Hindseter lodge, a 110 year old summer farm, seemed extremely well run and maintained. It was upmarket, but was busy with upmarket guests who were enjoying the trails the owners made daily.

After a coffee at Hindseter I continued north along the very beautiful Sjodalen valley in glourious sunshine. Th pines glowed against the white snow. I was skiing through a postcard in delightful terrain.

After crossing a old log bridge the trail ended and I headed down to the snow covered main road. Moose tracks were everywhere as they sought out buds and bark from birch trees.

Once on the main road I skied down it for some 10 km. Only in Norway could I push myself with the poles down the middle of a national road. On some down hill sections was going a good 20 km per hour.

It was getting late but I already had a tiny timber cabin booked at Randsverk. The owner was away but the key was in the door and the electric heater on.

Just before Randsverk a couple of moose crossed the road in front of me. They lumbered off into the pine forest sinking deep in the snow on long ungainly legs designed to move in deep snow. I have not seen many moose so was excited at this.

At dusk I reached Randsverk. It was another collection of summer and autumn farms. Every farm had a few buildings. They were made out of big timbers, darkened with age and the sun. The houses smelt of ancient wood which had been preserved with Stockholm tar, a natural protective coating. Randsverk was a living museum.

I found my cabin in the camp ground and it was as expected and warm. I made myself at home and wrote the blog. I hope the owner will return some I can buy some dinner, rather than eat the less savoury food I carry.

It was bitterly cold outside, by 1930 it was already minus 21 and it would get much colder yet. A huge full moon was just rising up through the pines. It had been a magnificent day, one of the best so far. While the weather had much to contribute, it was also nice to be in the pine forest after 5 weeks of snow covered barren mountain wilderness. There I was almost constantly well above the treeline of 1000 metres.

Distance 24km | Time 8hrs | Ascent 140m | Descent 190m

I was quite slow to get going and didn’t leave the cabin until 1000. It was overcast and there was a gentle westerly breeze, which thankfully would be behind me.

After closing the cabin up I set off along the Gjende lake which is 19 km long. The snow was deep and sometimes I didn’t see my skis as they travelled beneath the snow without breaking the surface. It would be a slow journey.

There was the occasional flash of blue sky as I ski up the lake especially in the east and over Besseggen arete. Pretty soon these occasional flashes combined into long periods. It was a spectacular sight to look down the frozen lake in its deep slot flanked by dark mountains on each side with Besseggen glowing in full sun.

As I reached Memurubu lodge, which was closed for the winter, the wind started to get up a bit and soon it was a strong force 6. The lakes surface was a flowing sea of spindrift heading to the east end at 15 metres a second. It was bitterly cold but at least I was not going into it. The snow was not so deep now but still deep enough so the wind did not push me along or assist me even.

The views however were getting clearer and clearer. Besseggen was looming above me on one side and the crescent shaped arete of Knutsho on the south side of the lake. Many people suspect it was Knutsho which Henrik Ibsen described as the arete by Gjende lake rather than Besseggen.

Soon Gjendesheim lodge appeared. This is owned by the DNT and is one of their flagship lodges. I reached the end of the lake passing the two summer passenger ferries hauled out of the water and siting in a snowfield being lashed by spindrift.

The lodge was open but not for business. I went in for a chocolate and a chat with the manager who I knew from some years ago. He phoned Bessheim lodge to arrange a room for me which was kind.

There was still 5 km to go. It was along a road. In the summer it was a busy thoroughfare. Now it was closed for the winter higher up, so effectively was a cul de sac serving a few barely open lodges. It was deserted and although snow ploughed still covered in snow.

I skied down the middle of the road for the 5 km to Bessheim lodge. It was a nice sunset and the bitter wind had now vanished because I was away from Gjende lake. I reached Bessheim at 1800 while it was still dusk.

I was given a room with a shower. Fantastic. I could enjoy my fifth shower this year. After that a nice simple healthy Norwegian meal. I then went into the rustic lounge to write the blog.

The blog takes about an hour a day and is sometimes a chore when I have had a hard day. Today was relatively easy though. My phone started behaving erratically again and I had to wrestle with it so it would send the blog and some emails.

Today was the first day for about 2 weeks I dropped below a 1000 metres altitude. Trees were still limited to birch though. Tomorrow however I descend further to Randsverk and enter the reassuring comfort of the pine forest. Deep snow and pine trees will give a winter wonderland ambiance which I am looking forward to after 5 weeks of raw mountain winter.