Ski and Paddle Norway 2009

Distance 35km | Time 10hrs | Ascent 320m | Descent 470m

After a very blustery and noisy night I woke to find the inner tent covered in spindrift on the outside and frost on the inside. To reduce condensation I had sewn storm flaps round the circumference of the tent except the end panels, one of which was the door. The spindrift was blown by the gale through this gap. A mistake some 10 weeks ago.

Still the tent held up well despite this although the sleeping bag foot was damp as usual due to contact with the frosty inner tent. I boiled water and put it in the plastic bottles which I popped inside my boots to thaw them It was relatively warm however at minus 5.

Given the wind and the amount of spindrift in the air and also the mist on the mountains, both Andre and I were sceptical of going onto the rugged plateau of Hykkelfjettlet to the north, as a route to Nordli. This area could be very rugged with many corniced knolls and ravines and without good sight could present major problems and slow tentative progress.

We decided instead to head into the teeth of the gale and descend Fossdal for some 15 km to the 765 road. This descent down the valley was both forested and covered in frozen swamps. We would have to go from swamp to swamp. The swamps being treeless were open plains where the wind could blow and help pack the snow. The forest however would harbour deep snow.

We set off around 0830 having wrestled the tents down and packed everything in the driving spindrift. The gentle descent was quick and within an hour we were into the first of the conifers. These gave great protection from the wind but unfortunately we had to avoid them and seek the clear exposed swamps.

We managed to link up the swamps with minimal forest by heading down the north side of the valley and then about halfway down, by the knoll of Litlklokklumpen, cross to the south side. After about 3 hours we reached Holden lake where the wind reappeared in force.

It was a slow tedious 4 km east across the lake into the wind and with difficult snow. The views were very limited to the lake and surrounding forest. Eventually we reached the road. This was busier than anticipated and sparsely covered in snow.

Andre with his heavy sledge had no option but to ski hoping the gravel embedded in the ice and snow and occasional tarmac strectch would not scrape a hole in the sledge. I opted to put my skis on my backpack and walk.

Like this we passed the next 20 km. I cannot pretend that it was anything but dull and tedious. We phoned the shop at Nordli to enquire about a cabin there someone had told me about. This cheered us up. The cabin was arranged and the shop had a tradition of providing free coffee, cake and baked items from the Lierne Bakkery to all who did Norge Paa Langs. The hospitality in this area and Trondheim as a whole was hard to beat.

As we trudged along the road the free nourishment at the shop was something to look forwad to. We reached the top of a long climb and then on the descent Andre shot off with skis on and sledge bouncing along behind him. I continued to walk and eventually got to Nordli half and hour after him as it was getting dark.

Our hosts, Astrid and Ragnar Monsen, had a few cabins to rent and had a long and distinguished service to long distant walkers and skiiers. They had been passing through here for decades and the Monsens had looked after them. Their visitor book contained glowing reports.

On the way to the shop for the coffee, Andre arranged to dip out of the trip for a day or two and visit a friend who would come and pick him up in a couple of hours. I had a stricter regime to follow so bought food for the 2 to 3 days to Royrvik. We enjoyed our coffee and cake and then returned to the Monsens.

Astrid Monsen invited me to the main house in as Andre left and plied me with waffles, home made strawberry jam and more coffee. I suppose rural people the world over show much more generosity and hospitality than urban people and the Monsens were prime examples.

I eventually returned to my cabin at 2200 to have my supper and write the blog which I finished at midnight.

It had been a memorable day due to the windy exposed camp and then the hospitality in Nordli. The ski and trudge along the road will quickly be forgotten and rightly so. I have not really had time to plan tomorrow so it remains a blank canvas. It will have a late start however.

This entry was posted on Friday, March 6th, 2009 at 11:16 pm and is filed under Update. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. Both comments and pings are currently closed.