Ski and Paddle Norway 2009

Distance 53km | Time 14hrs | Ascent 740m | Descent 920m

We got up at 0500. It still took some 2 hours to breakfast, pack, wash up and tidy up the cabin. So we didn’t leave until 0700. It was a wind still overcast day with mist obscuring everything but the valleys.

I set off with a mission to ski right over Borgefjellet to Susendalen on the north side of the park where there were some overnighting possibilities. Andre thought he would overnight in a shelter before the descent to Susendalen.

Luckily the snow was at last consolidating in the forest and with the recent mild weather which was sometimes even plus 1 or 2 when it later froze it provided a hard surface which supported my weight. The 6 km ski up through the forest was therefore quite easy.

The spruce disappeared quickly. There were no pines above the spruce in this valley and the birch dominated the higher forest. As I skied past one birch there was a white flash at my feet as a ptarmigan which had been partly buried under the snow took off.

As the end of the forest I stopped and waited for Andre who had a sledge of 45 kg and a rucksack of 15. It was far too much stuff and it slowed him up a bit.

We then climbed up into the higher valley east of Gaukavatnet. Here there were undulating moraine piles and small lakes to ski through. We made quick time and the sun was trying to break through. There was a bright luminous quality to the snow against the grey mist higher up.

We crossed Store Kjukkelvatnet and reached a locked cabin on the north side It was probably owned by a Lapp and used for reindeer herding. After lunch we continued north across a couple of smaller lakes and climbed a small rise.

After the rise we seemed to enter a different climate. There was blue sky to the north while to the west the Queen of Borgefjell, Kvigtind mountain, appeared. Some of the slopes were covered in mist but the general shape of the peaks and glaciers were obvious. It was a beautiful sight.

We then skied across a high plateau deep with snow and in full view of Kvigtind for the next 15 km. The sun was strong and despite the altitude it was very warm. I soon worked up a sweat. It took about 4 hours to ski these 15 km to reach the shelter at Legdvatnet. This shelter lay under the other big mountain of Borgefjellet called Golvertind, 1682m.

The shelter contrary to the map description turned out to be a substantial cabin which was locked. Andre decided to follow me down to Susendalen rather than camp here.

It was mostly down hill from this cabin to Susendalen. I went west to try and follow the ridge down. I wanted to avoid the knolly ravines near the rivers on each side of the ridge. Andres’ sledge was less manoeuvrable and we got separated. I thought I would blast down and get a cabin and warm it up rather than wait.

The ski down the ridge was initially enchanting. It was not too steep and the snow amongst the birch trees was firm. I weaved in and out for a good 3 km until I reached the first spruce. There were some scooter tracks here. I tried to follow them but they were too steep so I zig-zagged through the forest until it became difficult.

The scooter tracks were firm so I decided to remove my skis and walk down the steep bit. As I removed my skis Andre arrived. I was astonished to see him as I saw him heading into a difficult gnarly area half and hour before.

We soon reached the snow covered road and skied down to the farm the map said had accommodation. We reached it in 10 minutes. It was a beautiful old log farm called Sorgarden. There trouble was it was completely closed and there was no one there. We went to the next and asked the farmer there what he knew.

Andre and him made quick arrangements with a farm 3 km back up the valley at Furuheim. They had cabins and served food. A van was dispatched from there to pick us up. By the time the van had arrived I caught the drift of what was happening.

I will walk the whole of Norway. Motors are not part of my agenda. So I declined the van. In addition I was not going to walk 3 km south back up the valley to return tomorrow. So I declined the accommodation at Furuheim.

There was accommodation another 11 km down the valley in a north direction at Kvalpskarmo and a phone called arranged this. It was nearly 1900 however and I would not get there until after 2100. Still it was a very quiet lane and a nice evening. Andre had had enough and asked the van driver from Furuheim, who had already driven 3 km to find his business evaporating, to drive him and the sledge the 11 km to Kvalpskarmo.

It was a very nice walk for me. There was not enough light for me to ski and the head torch didn’t really show the roads surface and potential gravel so I walked it with skis on the pack. Some stars were out but it was too overcast to see the northern lights. I still have not seen them on this trip but am sure I will soon at the Abisko area.

It was a long walk for my tired feet but eventually just after 2100 I reached the supposed cabin. It was actually a house and extremely comfortable. The stove was lit and the place was already warm. It even had a bathroom with a shower.

I ate a oil rich supper Andre cooked. Had a shower and then started the blog. I didn’t finish until 0100. However I knew if I left it until tomorrow it would be worse. The next destination was Hatfjelldal and it was now just 18 km down this lane. I wanted to get there early enough to buy a few things.

It had been a long day, equalling my distance record. I felt I could have gone further if needed such was the level of my fitness and stamina now. It had also been a very very good day. The skiing was excellent and it was nice to be back in proper mountains again after the farms and forests of North Trondelag, nice as they were.

This entry was posted on Wednesday, March 11th, 2009 at 4:42 pm and is filed under Update. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. Both comments and pings are currently closed.