Ski and Paddle Norway 2009

Distance 106km | Time 10hrs | Ascent 1210m | Descent 1180m

I got up at 0600 to a fine morning. It was mostly overcast, but unthreatening, dry, and wind still. After a large breakfast of bread and spreads I packed my much reduced rucksack of about 13 kg and set off at 0730.

I made good time out of town but Ifjord was a long way off, with 2 large hills to climb. Already after 4 km and half way up the first hill I had to stop. The saddle was desperately uncomfortable. I suspected it might have been so took some tape. I cut a section of my foam mattress and taped it on. Then I cut another section and placed in between my underpants and trousers. It was instantly better.

I climbed up to around 300 metres in one go and then started across the plateau south of Mehamn. The bike did not have panniers so I had to put the rucksack on my back which added to the discomfort.

After having the freedom to go where I wanted on skis I felt quite confined by the road. There was little of interest along it. No plants in crevices, no ptarmigan hollows filled with their droppings. It was mostly sterile gravel with the very occasional litter.

The speed I was going at was fantastic though. Having been used to skis all year, I could not judge the distances on a bike well. I would see a landmark and assume I would reach it in half an hour. Yet within 10 minutes I was long past it.

The plateau itself was a tad misty. I did see the odd herd of reindeer and these again seemed frightened of me on a bike but were totally unbothered by the rare car. Indeed hardly any cars passed me all morning.

After a good three hours I was descending the south side of the Nordkinn plateau and heading down to the narrow isthmus which connects it to the mainland at Hopseidet. It was only 300 metres wide. I will be disappointed if impatience gets the better of valour and I decide to portage here in a month, rather than go round Kinnarodden, due to prolonged bad weather.

After Hopseidet it was exactly the same. A steep and sustained climb up to around 350 metres and then 20 km across the plateau. There were hardly any reindeer, or their tracks, here at all. Obviously all had been herded across the isthmus.

Towards the southern end of the plateau was a great view down to Torskefjorden. It was once inhabited but the farms along the fjord are now abandoned and used as leisure houses. It was the first time I had seen trees in a week and even if they were birch, it was pleasant.

Then came a lovely descent down the south side of this plateau to the rather idyllic hamlet of Bekkarfjord. I noticed just how much the snow here had gone in the week since I stayed. The streams were all open now and flowing in spate. Water dripped from every overhang.

I dropped in to see the Jenssens but the whole family bar the quiet old dog were away. It was still early at 1430 and I had already done 72 km with 2 big climbs. It was just another 34 km to Ifjord so I set off with gusto.

The gusto soon ran out. The road was initially easy to Lebesby. It followed the rough coast of jagged outcrops with some more gentle looking islands just offshore. After Lebesby however my energy ran out and I was getting very saddle sore. Although only 17 km it took well over two hours. It was also quite hilly and I opted to walk the uphill and freewheel down.

I reached Ifjord just at the same time as the forecasted rain. It was not a luxurious place at all but I was made to feel very welcome by the Swedish couple who ran the place, and Haldane the owner. They also seemed genuinely interested in my skiing adventures of the last week since I left here heading north.

I got the same room and after a double hamburger wrote the blog. It was pouring sleet outside as I finished at 2130.

It had been a good day but my legs were tired and I was saddle sore. Tomorrow was another long day of 88km to Tana Bru. I hope I hold up. Haldane gave me some tape to further cushion the saddle with another layer of foam mattress and this should help. I am sure I will sleep well tonight!

This entry was posted on Sunday, May 3rd, 2009 at 3:59 pm and is filed under Update. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. Both comments and pings are currently closed.