Day 198. Lauvoy to Smavaeret in Flatanger

Posted by: James on July 17, 2009

Distance 21km | Time 5hrs | Ascent 0m | Descent 0m

Day 198.1 Approaching the maze of isalnds south of Halmoya islandI was lazy in the morning and although I woke at 0700 I did not get up until 0830. The previous breakfast staple of muesli and powdered milk was now abandoned in favour of a packet of oat rich biscuits covered in chocolate. Much easier and no washing up.

I leisurely packed the kayak up and did not set off until 1100. Disgraceful really after an early night. My arms felt heavy as they often do for the first hour as I left the lovely Lauvoy and crossed over to Kvernoya and then round the south east tip to enter a sound. Across the sound on the south side was the guesthouse at Einvika. It looked OK but one can’t tell from the map and it might have been absent even.

After passing through the sound I came to the west end of it and entered another archipelago of small and large islands. On the larger island to the north, Halmoya, was a very well kept and large farm with a beautiful old white building. Generations of hard work had gone into building that up.

Day 198.2 One of the deepest channels in the maze of islands south of HalmoyaAgain I entered an area where it was difficult to navigate with the road map and GPS combination. There were some 20 larger islands surrounded by at least 100 smaller islets and skerries. I just aimed south west and enjoyed exploring. I never knew what was round the next corner. Sometimes it was a sandy channel with beaches on each side, sometimes it was a deep channel with darks waters and sometimes it was weed covered shallows which had dried in this low tide and I had to paddle on to the next. This was the type of paddling I liked most rather than having the predictability of watching the distant headland getting imperceptibly getting closer.

The excitable oyster catchers were numerous in these islands. I spotted a couple of them with their single chick. These chicks were about half the size of the parents too now and the considerable work the parents had put into rearing the chick, feigning injury and warding off predators had almost paid off, as the chick was not so vulnerable now and would be flying in a month probably

Day 198.3 Lunch beaak on the island of Kvaloya looking northI eventually reached the west side of this maze at Kvaloya and although I had only done some 13 km in three hours stopped for lunch on a beach. It was pretty easy to find a beach when I wanted since Tromso about a month ago. Kvaloya had a few on the south side and I didn’t see the best until I left the small on I was on.

I now paddled along the coast which was more open to the west and the potential bad weather. Today was however turning into a stunner and it was almost getting too hot and it was completely still.

I crossed the narrow mouth of Jossundfjord and reached the headland on the other side where Hasvag lay. It was in a large bay sheltered from the west sea by a number of larger islands which formed a basin. Within this basin was another deep sheltered bay where the small village of Hasvag lay. The map indicated it had a campsite and I thought about it but I could not see it as I paddled past so it must have closed or never existed. Generally the campsites are busy noisy places full of camper vans and not the sort of place I thrive.

Day 198.4 The pub and shop at the small marina at the quiet hamlet of SmavaerI paddled on for another couple of km until I came to Smavaer on the end of the peninsula. This was a hamlet of about 15 houses, a small marina, a simple shop and a pub. I asked the shop owners who had the pub also if I could camp nearby and write in the pub. No problem she said. She even showed me and cleaned a small shed to write in if I preferred. I thought the empty pub would be better.

I had the tent up, the kayak on the floating jetty and was in the pub writing by 1630. I ordered a meal here and it had to be Baccaloa, a Spanish dish from Galicia made from Norwegian fish. The main ingredient is Klippfisk, which is salted cod which has been dried in the summer sun on rocks.

The marina here seemed to be full of some 5 sedentary cabin cruisers the owners of which seemed to spend the whole afternoon on deck sunbathing. They stayed in the evening also. I assume that they will spend the entire summer holiday going from one marina to another doing this. It is quite remarkable that this country I spent the winter skiing up can now offer this almost Mediterranean weather everyone has enjoyed in the last month.

The writing went well and by 2130, after some 5 hours, I had the three days done and uploaded with all the pictures. This seems to be the most efficient way to get it out of the way rather than doing it day to day. I suppose it all depends on the weather and how my arms feel as to what happens in the future.

After writing the shop owner let me buy a few supplies and I had another meal in the pub which still remained empty before hopefully crashing out early, restocked and up to date. Hopefully I will be ready for a bigger day tomorrow.

It had been a short easy day. Perhaps I had wasted some excellent weather and will come to regret it later but I also had to clear the decks of writing and relax a bit.

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