Ski and Paddle Norway 2009

Distance 32km | Time 8.5hrs | Ascent 350m | Descent 390m

Two guests at the lodge, and also Per who owned the lodge, told me there was an open cabin owned by the military about halfway to Skoganvarre. This was great news as Skoganvarre was about 60 km and t would be best to break it up. The cabin was at Stiipanavzi about 30 km away. This meant I did not have to leave at 0400 but at a normal time.

So I got up at 0730 for the breakfast at 0800. It was a simple breakfast with newly baked bread. It was quite a social affair with the group of about 10 lively ladies and the 3 other groups. By coincidence one of the lively ladies was from near Otta and had seen my newspaper article from a month ago. They were a very nice bunch.

The weather was trying to put a damper on things. It was snowing heavily and blowing a force 5 or 6. Miserable really. At 0930 the owner o the lodge, Per, appeared. He looked a real Lapp in his reindeer trousers and fur hat. He was going to Ravnastua lodge with some things and would also make a trail for the lively ladies and another group to follow to the junction with the official scooter trail. They all set off around 1000.

I was a bit more undecided as my route was across open moorland with no shelter and featureless to navigate in. If the weather turned really nasty I would have to dig a snowhole but there was generally too little snow for this. I dithered as a few snow showers came and went. Eventually at 1100 I decided to go. It was as late as I could comfortably leave if I wanted to get to Stiipanavzi cabin.

The weather was still windy when I left but the forecast was it would ease during the day. Initially I followed the tracks of the lively ladies who in turn were following the tracks made by Per’s scooter. These tracks went across moorland with willow scrub poking out of the snow. The snow was compact but must have been less than a metre deep. After some 6 km of this undulating route across moorland and frozen lakes with the odd snow shower and force 5 wind against me I eventually reached the official scooter track to Ravnastua lodge. I was just going to cross it and continue north east. However I met Per returning on his scooter.

Per said there was a emergency shelter some 5 km down this official scooter track. I thought I would head for it and put my windproof salopettes on. It was a fast ski to this shelter as the wind was now partially behind me. I crossed the three lakes as directed and the shelter was in a bay on the third lake. It was old, simple and somewhat dirty inside with grime and coffee residue. There was one filthy mattress on one of the 4 sleeping platforms. It was cold inside but I dressed here and ate some chocolate.

While I was here a couple of scooters turned up. One was driving up fuel to a depot for reindeer herders and the other was an old wizened Lapp of about 70 years at least. The latter spoke no Norwegian. The younger said the weather would get worse this afternoon.

The wind was still strong outside, indeed I think it had increased to a force 6. It was 20 km to Stiipanavzi cabin but I was going virtually straight into the wind. I wondered if I should turn back after I had gone a km as it was bitterly cold and my extremities and face were getting chilled. I put more gloves on pulled my hood right down and continued.

It took a good 5 hours before I was approaching Stiipanavzi cabin. The journey was quite tedious. The only thing that changed was the amount of bad weather. The wind continued as force 5 or 6 for the whole distance. It brought some snow showers with it, each one lasting for about half an hour. The flat landscape, strewn with boulders and glacial erratics disappeared during these showers. I frequently had to use the GPS to find out where I was as there were no features to orientate myself with.

During the snow showers I had to remove my glasses as they got so covered in snow I could see nothing. Then I really had to pull my hood down look to the ground to avoid my face getting plastered in snow. Between the showers however the sun tried to return. In the sunny periods the light showed up every detail and contrast in the landscape and snow where even the most minute ridges and imperfections were highlighted. It was a very crisp Arctic light.

Soon I was just 2 km from the cabin. I could see the dark canyon of Stiipanavzi which was filled with birch trees. This canyon cut into the flat undulating landscape deeply and drained it. They were a feature of Finnmarksvidda. I had recently crossed one 6 days previously and they were a nightmare. Deep loose snow and steep sides.

The cabin was sited just at the lip of this canyon. It was owned by the military. It was easy to descend the few hundred metres to the shelf it was perched on and surrounded in birch trees. I skied down to it and was nicely surprised as how good condition it was in. Inside it was quite nice with 4 beds and a wood stove. Initially I did not see any wood and then found a whole sack of it. Within an hour I had it quite cosy. This cabin seemed to get a bit of the scooter traffic and there were a lot of coffee spillages and empty vodka bottles around which would take the shine of in in some years.

It was 1930 where I reached the cabin and I was not settled and warm until 2100. After my dehydrated meal I set about the blog. I did not finish until midnight though. Even at midnight there was a small glow in the northern sky where the sun was resting just below the horizon.

It was hard day with the wind sapping my energy. However it was really just what I needed. It was a full return to winter after the scare of spring some days ago. The temperatures must have been down to minus 10 and plenty of new snow had fallen. The cabin at Stiipanavzi was perfect and finding the wood was enough for me to forgive the coffee spilling scooter drivers who must have brought it here.

Distance 39km | Time 9hrs | Ascent 640m | Descent 460m

I didn’t sleep that well. Perhaps it was the lack of exercise yesterday. As a consequence there was no very early start but I still managed to get up at 0600. By the time I had breakfast and packed up everything and was ready to go it was already 0800.

It was a clear, cold, crisp morning with the temperature around minus 5. It was just what I wanted. I left the camping ground with its small huts and headed up to the main road. Here on the west verge was a scooter track which went all the way to the other half of Masi some 3 km to the north.

I followed the scooter track which was not that nice as it was beside the road, like a pavement almost. It made a steep narrow descent down to northern Masi where I walked.

The northern part of Masi was bigger with perhaps 200 houses while the southern half only had about 100. The northern half also had the shop, school and visitor centre. Everything except accommodation. The shop opened in an hour at 1000 so I continued down to the bridge over the river Alta. Apparently the ice on the river was not safe so the bridge was best.

On the other side of the bridge there was a further 3 km beside a gravel road. It was easier to walk than struggle in the undulating scooter tracks. By a picturesque farm the gravel road ended and a scooter track began. It followed an uncleared track up through 5 hairpin bends to gain the lip of the valley and the plateau beyond to the east.

Once on the plateau I put my skis on and set off. It was great conditions. A very firm base with a few cm of powder covering it. No scooters had been along this track for 2 days as the snow was still undisturbed. I made quick time across the slightly undulating plateau.

The track rose over gentle ridges where the snow was sometimes sparse and then descended the east sides where the snow had accumulated. Between the ridges were frozen lakes which were ringed in willow scrub. It was a very gentle and easy landscape to ski through. Behind me the Alta valley was disappearing down into the deep slot it had carved in this plateau and was barely visible.

I soon crossed a ridge which was the watershed between the Alta and Ragesjohka valleys. From here I undulated down crossing further lakes until I entered the birch forest again. A few km through this brought me to the Ragesjohka river. Just on the other side was a homestead called Rageslouppal.

This homestead was remote, rustic and run down. Old ramshackle sheds were full of defunct rusting machines. Apparently a single older man lived here. His place looked more like it belonged to west coast Scotland or Ireland and not very Norwegian at all.

There was a scooter outside so I knocked on the door but there was no answer. It was a shame as I heard he was quite a character. I was also a bit confused as to the best route from here to Mollesjohka lodge. I guessed it was best to continue east along some barely marked tracks and then to the river Lesjohka where I knew there to be scooter tracks up the river to Mollesjohka lodge.

I set off rather nervous that the trails would vanish into the willow scrub and birch woods. True to form they did and I was having to pick a route myself. However contrary to the nightmare I had earlier in the week with deep loose melting snow I could now go where I wanted. The snow mass had refrozen and was now completely firm. In addition the few centimeters of new snow made for great conditions.

Despite the fact I was making my own way in the woods I was thoroughly enjoying it. I was not quite confident enough in the overall firmness to taunt it but for the 7 km to Lesjohka river I never broke through once even when going over juniper bushes and willow scrub.

Once on the river it was easy going for a km up a widening called Gorzellattu. At the top of this narrow almost lake the scooter tracks headed up to the west of the river for an very gentle climb of 2 km until the reached the river again. There were large patches with very little snow as this winter had been very windy in Finnmark and much of the loose snow had blown onto the lee slopes, which this winter were the north slopes.

Where the track reached the river Lesjohka again it crossed it to reach Mollesjohka lodge and the general hamlet around it. There was no road here. It was like the hill farms of North Trondelag again, but a bit more ramshackle. Apparently there were two lodges; this private one and a more official trekking lodge some 5 km up the river. The local and non local guests said this one was the better. I was initially skeptical.

As it turned out the lower Mollesjohka lodge was extremely nice. I got a reasonable room, there was a shower, the dinning/sitting room was lovely and the food was excellent. The owners, Per and his wife were both Lapps. They were extremely nice and the place had a very nice vibe to it.

There were some 20 other guests who were doing a classic ski from Alta to Karasjok. I was going perpendicular to this route. The meal was a very social affair. Afterwards Per and two of the guests gave me good advice on how to split my massive day to Skoganvarre into two. The only trouble was with all the socializing the blog did not get done until most had disappeared. I did not finish until 2400.

It had been a very good day. After the initial tedious ski and walk beside a road it improved vastly. The snow was great, the route was varied and the homestead at Rageslouppal was interesting. The real surprise was the very nice lodge at Nedre Mollesjohka.

Distance 0km | Time 0hrs | Ascent 0m | Descent 0m

I was tired after yesterdays long day and more importantly needed to devote some time to paperwork issues, not least the blog where I was two days or three hours behind. I also needed a shower and to wash some clothes. I had planned a rest day in Masi in my head for ages. Indeed it was perhaps why I let the writing slip for 2 days.

So when I woke I rolled over again and went straight back to sleep. Eventually I got up at 1000. Luxury. For all my bragging about how I could have gone further after my 59 km yesterday my legs this morning let it be known there would be a mutiny if I asked them to do more than walk to the shower block.

The little hut I was in (cabin is too grand a word) was very basic and poorly equipped. There was a one ring cooker, fridge, two beds which looked like they had been nailed together by prisoners using old pallets, a table and two chairs and a wall heater. However it did the job.

I spent the rest of the morning in my hut looking at maps and writing up the day from Reisajavri to Njivlovuopmi. I finished this by about 1300 when the café which ran the huts opened. I had a small breakfast so was pretty hungry and went over to the café and ordered two meals. It was run and owned by a Lapp woman of around 60. Her prices were quite steep.

Then in the afternoon I stayed in the café and wasted the luxury of my hut. Here I wrote up the day from Njivlovuopmi to Masi. I also had a few emails to send and a few phone calls to make.

Once these office chores were done I had a shower and washed my clothes. It would have been a good drying day in the sunny breeze, but I missed the afternoon and by early evening when the hand wash was complete the sun was still out but the temperature had fallen to below zero again.

I went back to the café in the evening for another two meals. The portions were not big. There were a couple of other Lapps in the café. I got chatting to them but they insisted in speaking English rather than Norwegian. There English was terrible and I quickly got bored. They both owned reindeer but paid somebody else to look after them. One cow is worth 5 reindeer apparently.

I spent the evening in the cabin with cloths hanging above the one ring electric cooking plate and wall heather hoping they would be dry by the morning and then remembered the tent had to be dried also.

I eventually crashed out at 2300 with plans to get up early and ski the 35 odd km along scooter tracks to Nedre Mollesjokka Fjellstue.

It had been a boring day with writing on the phones keypad and using it as a phone taking up most of it. Still my body had a chance to rest and I could gorge myself on nasty quick food which tasted great. It was the type of day which just has to be done from time to time, like wading through forest snow.

Distance 59km | Time 16hrs | Ascent 730m | Descent 920m

When I woke it was still dark but not pitch dark. I felt dawn was approaching. I felt refreshed and decided to get up without looking at my watch. I thought that it would have provided an excuse to lie a few more hours until a more conventional time. By extrapolating back it must have been 0300.

The sleet shower of yesterday evening had frozen onto the tent as the temperatures dropped to well below freezing. Then as the sleet turned to snow it covered the tent. It was just what I wanted. The old, loose, soft, wet, deep snow under the 5 cm of new snow was solid and crunchy. I had trouble in getting all the snow of the tent.

Eventually packed, I set of at 0445. It had already been light for at least 45 minutes. It was overcast and there was always the threat of further showers.

I set off into the forest in the direction of Carajavri lake. It was not the best. I relooked at the map and saw that I would not be much longer if I followed the stream, called Coalbrejohka, for 3 km until the side stream, called Sallejohka, joined it, and then I could follow this to the open hillside. I diverted back some 200 metres to the larger stream and started to follow its smooth meanders of snow covered ice. Much easier and quicker.

After the 3 km I cut off east and followed the frozen alluvial channels of the Sallejohka stream. Just to the south, on a mound, were a collection of some 5 small Lapp huts with their characteristic pyramid roofs. These were obviously used for reindeer herding as there were fences nearby.

The climb up the hillside on the south side of the Sallejohka stream was a relief. I was now longer imprisoned in the tangle of willow scrub and deep snow of the birch. With confident strides I could power up the 6 or so km to Carajavri lake. The only problem seemed to be the worsening state of the weather. It went from overcast to atmospheric and it now looked like something nasty was about to hit.

It soon did. It was a short sharp blizzard of a half hour. I made it to the Carajavri lake in the midst of it with poor visibility. It was also much colder now. It was a relief that the spring of the last 3 days was hopefully temporary. Almost as quickly as the blizzard came it disappeared. By the far side of the lake it was absolutely stunning weather with not a cloud in the sky. There were still some residual snowflakes falling but out of a light blue sunny sky!

At the far side of the lake I came across some branches marking a scooter track. I knew them to be here. Also here was the scooter track junction which went east from a small peninsular to a saddle some 2 km to the east. At the top of this saddle just an hour after the blizzard disappeared I sat in the blazing sun and melted some water on my gas stove without having use a windshield. It was cold however, perhaps minus 7. Perfect weather for me.

From the saddle there was a 9 km descent down the Doaresjohka stream valley. The conditions were near perfect. A firm base with a dusting of new snow on top. I just had to watch occasional sastrugi formations. Within 2 hours I had made it all the way to the edge of the map and a bit beyond, where the Doaresjohka mets the Vuoldejohka streams.

At the junction here was a Lapp tent. There were fresh scooter tracks around it but nobody was in. I had a peek. It was extremely tidy inside. Twigs and straw lined the snow floor and these were then completely covered in reindeer skins. A parafin stove, hearth and flue made up the centerpiece. Around the perimeter were 4 camp beds. It looked very comfortable and in the sun the dark green walls were absorbing the heat.

I followed there fresh scooter trails assuming they would go to Masi. After a short distance branches appeared beside the scooter trail. This was great; perhaps it was an official track to Masi. The tracks went over some small ridges and crossed some small ravines but I was unworried as they headed east towards Masi.

Then the tracks seem to veer south east onto the Saognojarvi lake where they veered south. I looked at the map perhaps they were going to Kautokeino. That would have been more that a major headache as it would leave me some 20 km of potentially difficult ridge and forest to cross. Just as the reality was sinking in two scooters appeared from behind a ridge and came towards me. I didn’t need to flag them down they stopped anyway amazed to see a skier. Like sports car drivers stopping to have a chat with an eccentric driving a horse and cart.

They had the news I wanted to hear. Just round the ridge the scooter track separated with one branch going to Masi. They had come from Masi and said it was 25.3 km away. They were very chatty and I hadn’t seen anybody for 3 days. I got them to show me where the scooter track went on the map. It was an obvious route and I felt reassured. It was just 1600 so I felt confident I would make it. For good measure they pointed to a lake on the map and said there was an open hut, probably without wood, I could use at about the half way stage.

I set off with vigour fueled by my third 100 gram bar of chocolate of the day. The route did exactly as they said. It turned east behind the ridge and then crossed two smaller lakes to reach the sunny Roggejarvri lake. From here there was a shortcut up a steep valley to the top of Suonjeroaivi hill. Here there was a trail junction with one route going west to Troms province and the other going east to Masi.

It was a rollercoaster of a ski from rounded hilltop to rounded hilltop for some 8 km as I followed the trail east. I suppose scooters have to follow routes where the snow lingers longest and the ups and downs are not of the same consequence to a tired skier with a backpack. Below lurked the deep snow traps in the forest as a reminder why I must follow the scooter tracks up here.

Eventually I came down from the hilltops and into the forest and lake area. I still felt OK and after having my fourth 100 gram chocolate bar of the day decided to give the woodless hut a miss and continue to Masi. At last I got my skis right and took off the small ski skins and put on blue extra wax. It was perfect and I should have done it ages ago. I did not particularly like the short ski skins.

With skis right I felt good. I still had enough energy to enjoy it a bit. There was one last climb up and over Stuoroaivi hill. From high up here there was a wonderful view over the endless Finnmarksvidda plateau. It was mostly very gentle rolling hills which gently sloped down to wide open wooded valleys before rising gently up to the next group of rolling hills. This was the oldest landscape in Europe and some 3 billion years old. There was an atmospheric sunset over it.

Just the other side of the hill was a further junction with a signpost for scooter routes, even to place in Finland some 150 km away. There was a route to Masi some 7 km away along a snow covered forest track. Despite the abundance of scooter tracks I had only seen 3 since coming back into Norway 3 days ago. It was a far cry from Kilpisjarvi in Finland.

These 7 km were exactly what I wanted. It was basically easy for the first half and then the second half was so gentle down hill I just had to stand and sing as I went along at 10 km per hour. Well within the hour I was through the birch forest where the sun set behind a framework of black branches and twigs. It was a good end to a great day

I reached the road. Crossed it and went to Masi Turist Centre. It was closed but there was a number to ring. Within 10 minutes I was in a cabin. It was around 2100. I just had a lot to drink to quench my thirst and crashed out. I could not be bothered to eat. I was pretty tired but could have gone a bit further if needed given chocolate as fuel.

It had been a great day. The longest in distance and time. It is amazing just how fit I have become. I could also look forward to a day off tomorrow as I had to catch up with the blog and rest. It has also been a great day for variety. There were no great mountains but the rolling hills and forest were interesting as long as I was on a track through the forest.

Distance 25km | Time 9hrs | Ascent 390m | Descent 450m

It had been a warm night with the temperature hovering around zero all night. By the time I had eaten breakfast, packed down the tent it was already 0800. I should have been leaving much earlier to catch the best of the frozen snow and firmer conditions.

It must have been a bit colder than zero in the night as the snow was frozen. I headed west for a km back to a tarn and then started northwards through the birch forest. Generally my skis stayed above the surface and I rarely broke through. I was still off the map so was just going on instinct for about 5 km. I could see bare white mountains in the distance about 5 km away so just had to get across the valley floor of patchy frozen marsh and thin birch woods, all still quite hard luckily.

I got to the far side of this valley floor and met the vast ice meander of the frozen Cieknaljokka stream. The stream seem to be flowing underneath the ice and then seeping onto the surface where it froze. Many streams do this with the result that the whole stream bed is a mass of thick ice. Just after the stream were a number of reindeer fences to cross.

My first goal was the old closed mine at Bidjovagge. There was a road here and I was hoping it might also be a scooter track. I started up the snowy slopes of Albbasoaivi. It was a relief to be on firm snow at last. I would endeavour to keep above the treeline today at most costs. The climb was nice and I had a great with down to the wooded lowlands which surrounded Reisajavri lake.

After an easy hour of climbing in glorious hot sunny weather I came the the road. It was completely invisible, if it was there at all as the mine was now derelict. However there was a scooter track here going in the correct direction I hoped as they are not marked on the map. They are official scooter tracks however marked by branches stuck in the snow. I naively hoped it was going to Masi.

I followed the scooter track north up to the small mine building and then beyond. Unfortunately the scooter tracks now veered north west up the prominent ridge line while I wanted to go north east. With reluctance I had to leave the tracks, on which there were no scooters during two hours I followed them, and headed across open mountainside north east into a valley.

On the map this valley had little forest. In reality it was covered in patches of birch forest and between these were willow scrub. I made for the southern spur of a mountain called Sieddas. To get here the going was good as I followed a shallow stream bed down. When I reached the main valley where the Njivlojokka river flowed it was different though.

The sun had softened the already loose snow in the birch forest and scrub willow thickets. The latter were especially difficult. There were moose droppings everywhere. I did not want to be in moose country on a day like this I wanted to be in reindeer country. These woods and thickets were full of ptarmigan.

From the prominent southern tip of Sieiddas hill I crossed into a valley region called Njivlovuopmi. It was probably a lake, which was then filled by a silt delta, and now was a flood plain through which the river meandered. Crossing Njivlovuopmi was very hard. The soft sugar snow seemed to have no bottom. The tangle of willow thicket constantly snagged my skis. I fell a few times because branches under me collapsed and it was a laborious job to stand up again. I had to use the rucksack as a firm base on which to push otherwise my arms disappeared up to the armpits.

It took nearly 2 hard hours to go 2 km. In the end I reached the river Njivlojokka and followed its firm ice making much better progress. There were two huts marked on the map by the small tarn at the north end of the three Cuovzajavrrit tarns. I would make for them and if they were open sleep in them. Although it was only 1700 it was a waste of time and effort to continue.

I got to the northernmost lake by where the huts should have been, but they had vanished. After double checking coordinates I put the tent up. As soon as I had finished the tent the weather turned and a sleet shower came in. This would just melt things further. I was quite worried. The sleet soon piled up thick outside and started to freeze.

After the dehydrated dinner I tried to write but my eyes would not let me so I had to crash out about 2000. It was still quite light.

It had been a frustrating and hard day. I had worked hard but only had 25 km to show for it. I had been overconfident that the lack of woods on the map would mean the firm, plain sailing, snow of the bare 600 plus metre mountain sides. The birch woods were a desperate place to be when the temperatures were warming up a bit. I really needed a freeze.