Ski and Paddle Norway 2009

Distance 40km | Time 10.5hrs | Ascent 620m | Descent 680m

All breakfasts seem to start at 0800 and the breakfast in this hotel was no different. It was a bit too late for my liking as I would not really get away until 0900. Two hours after daybreak

It had been snowing all night in Storlien and the streets were deep in snow I skied back to the east end of town, and then where the road crossed the train line I headed north on a ski and scooter trail. Within a km the benign weather at Storlien was replaced by a bitter north wind which picked up the loose snow.

It skied up this deserted trail for a good 4 km until I came to a small shelter. It was open so I went in to get out of the strong wind and spindrift so I could put another wool vest on. I then continued east on the scooter trail, rather than cut across the windswept plateau covered in deep snow with navigation problems due to the poor sight.

The descent down to the isthmus which separated the north and south Rensjon lakes was wonderful. The wind died down and the sun came out. The stark bare plateau soon gave way to a taiga type forest of thin spruce trees of sharp appearance. These forests cover vast tracts of north west Sweden.

Turning north I headed up Rensjon lake with only the occasional scooter bothering me. It was very quiet and peaceful. As I approached the north end an apparition I had been told about appeared. Here in the barren wilds of Sweden was a old hunting lodge built over 100 years ago. Most remarkable was the whole thing was painted pink!

I passed the lodge and met three locals on scooters. They told me the place I was heading, Holmsjostugan was private and locked. However they phoned Skalstugan and arranged a place for me to stay there. It was another 20 km and the time was 1430 already. It was a beautiful day and I would have their tracks and the crosses to follow if it got dark.

I set off up the hill of Ugglan. A sustained climb of 3 km to a junction. By now the sun had disappeared and the wind had begun anew. Indeed the scooter tracks were already filling with spindrift. By the time I reached the hill top 4 km north of Ugglan the wind was up to a force 6, it was snowing heavily and spindrift was everywhere. The scooter track had vanished and the going was difficult and deep.

As I descended being buffeted by the wind I thought the going would get easier. Far from it. The wind increased to a force 7 and the spindrift was everywhere. I could not ski but trudged through the deep snow. Eventually I came to a sign Holsjostugan Privat. So it was locked after all I thought. I didn’t go the half km to find out.

I decided to continue down to Skalstugan which I little hope of reaching but thought if I get down into the forest I could put up the tent more easily, especially if I made the spruce forest. Luckily there were the crosses to follow as the scooter marks had long vanished.

The next 4 km was perhaps the hardest of the trip so far. It was a force 8 now, spindrift was everywhere in swirling maelstroms even the hardy stunted birch trees looked like they were creaking. The snow was deep and difficult. Slowly step by step I edged towards the forest in the twilight of dusk. I reached it after a good hour and a half.

Once in the tall thin spruce the wind eased slightly and the scooter tracks although filled in with snow were visible again. The wind was however blowing vast amounts of accumulated snow off the trees so the air was still full of spindrift. I thought about camping here but it was only 5 km to Skalstugan.

The descent through the trees was still quite difficult as it was almost dark at 1800. Still within half an hour I had reached the lake. I now put my head torch on to cross it. Only 3 km to go. A very windy km across the lake. A simple km up a gentle knoll and a difficult to navigate km down to the Skalstugan through the forest without and tracks towards the lights of the lodge.

Eventually I arrived at 1930 and entered looking like a yeti. The guests and staff were surprised to hear I had come from Storlien through what they described as a storm, but was well short. It was not a hotel as such so I was ushered through to the staff quarters.

The staff could not have been more helpful. I was fed, watered, shown a characterful and rickety room, and the shower. I wrote half the blog then crawled into my sleeping bag and slept like a log.

It had been a long hard day. Perhaps the hardest yet since some of the days in the Setersheine in mid January. Still it was exciting to experience some real weather and come through it. Finally the hospitality of the staff at Skalstugan was quite extraordinary. Rural hospitality one could never find in urban places.

Distance 19km | Time 5hrs | Ascent 250m | Descent 790m

After a very good breakfast everybody who had come from Sylarnafjallstation and the three Dutch all prepared to leave. It had been a jolly stay at Blahammaren lodge as everybody got well and socialized.

Outside it was different. There was still a bit of wind, quite heavy snow and very thick mist. It was difficult to see more than 30 metres. The others all left for the short journey east to Storulvan while I headed north to Storlien. Before I set of there were more phone calls about the liberated rucksack and where to deliver it.

Initially the route down the hill from Blahammaren lodge was impossibly thick with mist. It was also reasonably steep so the skiing was difficult. I snow ploughed to keep my speed down as I could not make out the lie of the land despite the copious red marker crosses.

As I descended the visibility improved and soon I could make out the darkness of the patches of birch copses below and the forest beyond that. After a couple of km of descent the route reached a small emergency shelter. As I had just started I did not go in but continued down.

The descent got a tad steeper but with the improving view I could go faster Soon I was entering the birch forest where the snow was a bit deeper and this slowed me down. I weaved in and out of clumps of trees as I descended and eventually this pleasant ski brought me down to the wide valley floor in the midst of a thick birch forest. Mercifully there was a trail through it but it was deep with new snow.

The weather was now still and overcast. Thick snow lay on the branches of the birch and it was a very tranquil scene. I slowly skiied along this trail sinking in to the soft snow. After a km I came to a suspension footbridge over a large frozen river. After crossing it I had to either wax my skis or put skins on for the long shallow climb in loose snow. I went for the skins.

The climb was relatively easy and the scenery very pleasant. There was the odd very thin pointed spruce tree and a smattering of pines which added life to the dull leafless birch trees. Near the top of the climb by Rundvalen I met another skier. He was local and told me he had once seen a wolverine on this hill.

From Rundvalen it was a nice descent through the thickening spruce and pine forest to the village of Storvallen. The spruce were very thin and needle shaped as this allows them to shed snow easily so they are not damaged.

Just before Storvallen I had a simple fall and landed on my bum. This meant the rucksack hit the ground first and I broke the buckle on the waist band Not a big problem as I could tie it, but this will become an irritation.

I passed the youth hostel to enquire about accommodation in Storlien and got some good information about the route north as well. Storlien was another 6 km through an area of leisure cabins and forest.

Again there is little complimentary I can say about Storlien. A border town with a alpine ski development and as mass of ugly buildings. It was pretty down market as a resort. In addition it was full of Norwegians on snow scooters.

I checked into a pub with rooms and had a great shower and tasty meal. Half way through Andre and Morten texted me to say they were camping in the town. We soon met up for a beer in the pub. Andre was also doing Norge Paa Langs and I skied with them a good week ago for a day. We laughed about the route gone and discussed the route to come. We would no doubt meet again soon

Distance 19km | Time 4hrs | Ascent 500m | Descent 410m

I had a very slow start. It was a reasonably short day and the usually accurate Norwegian weather forecast said it would clear up around midday for a short while. So after breakfast at 0830 I lounged around during which time the spindrift was still flying around outside.

I eventually left at 1000 when the wind had ceased, but there was no sign of it clearing up. My skis had far too much wax on and kept balling up so I had to scrape a lot of the wax off. After that they were a dream with a good glide on the downhill section and sticky enough to grip the snow for the gentle uphill climbs.

I was not the first to leave for Blahammaren lodge so there was already a good trail. I glanced behind me from time to time but the clouds still covered the mountains. Before long I was at a junction where one route headed down to Storulvans fjallstation and a roadhead, while the other started to climb its undulating course to Blahammaren lodge.

It was a long sustained climb for 3 km up the slopes of Enkalen during which time I caught up with 2 of the 3 parties ahead of me. There was the odd bit of blue sky and occasional sunny spot but most things were still enshrouded in mist.

There was a wonderful run down the north side of Enkalen to a small hut used for emergencies and lunch breaks. There was already the first group lunching in here and I squeezed in also. Soon the 3 nice Swedes who invited me for dinner last night arrived. They were only 15 minutes behind and said the skies had cleared. It was exactly as the www.yr.no forecast had predicted.

I went out and right enough the whole landscape was basking in sun. I had not realized the lack of sun in the last 10 days except yesterday as I had been in woods, lanes and farming country. Now back in the mountains again I needed it. I took some photos and set off for the final 8 km.

I was the first now so had to break trail in the variable snow; sometimes deep, sometimes compact. It was hot work in the still air and sun and I soon had to stop to take off my jacket. It was marvellous to ski in the mountains in the sun again.

Much of the final 6 km was up a gentle slope. The skis were just gripping to the snow enough to stop me using excess energy in my arms and poles to stop me sliding back. Up and up I went with the Sylan massif clear behind me and sunny slopes around me.

Eventually I cleared a rise and there was Blahammaren lodge about a km in front. I ploughed through the easy snow and reached the lodge just after 1400. An easy short day. Already the weather was closing in again as the forecast predicted

Blahammaren lodge was run by the Swedish Trekking Association for lack of a better translation. It should have been quite down to earth and simple but had built up a reputation for good food. The atmosphere was however down to earth and simple with a cosy lounge.

Soon the nice Swedish family with twins arrived, then the nice Swedes who invited me for dinner and finally the good fun Dutch trio from Storerikvollen. It made for a sociable time. I could easily have continued to Storlien but a bit of social banter would not go amiss and I would have plenty of long days alone in the next sections.

After a god chat with the other groups I went for a shower. Then the dinner It was a 3 course affair with plenty of salad and vitamins. I sat with the Dutch and we had a very nice dinner. They were all very likable with very interesting jobs.

Everybody headed off quite early which suited me fine as I could go and write the blog and wrestle unsuccessfully with the phone to try and send emails Since entering Sweden the network has been erratic at best. By the evening the weather had deteriorated to a good blizzard.

It had been a great day. The view appeared at last. The 19 km was across good snow in the sun and the evening was spent in good company in a lodge with a nice atmosphere.

In addition I heard from Ovind that he finally had the rucksack but could not get it to Teveltunet in time. In some ways this was a mixed blessing as Teveltunet was a detour where I would lose many meters height to be climbed the next day.

Distance 18km | Time 6.5hrs | Ascent 670m | Descent 400m

The 3 Dutch and myself all got up at the same time around 0700. I had porridge for breakfast. After packing and cleaning up we all left at the same time of 0830. Me for Sylarnafjallstation and them for Storerikvollen cabin. We would probably meet tomorrow night in Blahammarensfjellstation which would be nice as they were a good crack.

My journey took me through the deep snow of the upper forest initially and then onto the bare mountainside soon after. The visibility was poor and more than once I thought about turning back and going to Storerikvollen cabin with the Dutch.

The reason I was coming this longer and much higher way for 3 days was for the view and proximity to Sylan. But if there was no view due to the weather it was a waste of extra effort, but not time as the easy way would probably take 3 days also.

The route was well marked with stakes across the plateau as I headed in the snow towards the unseen massif of Sylan. The snow was soft and the going was quite slow as I sunk in over my ankles with each step. It took a good 2 hours of trudging across this to reach the Swedish border. It was a very abstract border on this white plateau.

I continued to climb very slowly with the wind and snow behind me and mist cloaking the mountains. Occasionally it cleared enough so I could get an obscured glimpse of the crags and snow fields on each side of the steepening valley. The wind was getting up a bit now and must have been a good force 4 when I entered Ekorrdorren, the deep valley to the south of the Sylan massif.

There was a small shelter here, not really for overnighting unless one was caught in bad weather. I had lunch in the shelter and then prepared to climb the mountainside to the north. On the map it looked very steep but in reality it was not that bad. The wind would be directly into my face though so I battened down the balaclava and jacket hood.

On the climb up the wind got stronger and stronger as I neared the pass. It must have been a force seven at the top. Due to the snowfalls of the last week there were huge amounts of spindrift swirling around. At times it was a maelstrom of white and I could barely see my skis. I slowly climbed up through this almost thankful for the markers. The markers here were not the subtle and unobtrusive markers of Norway, but permanent, intrusive, red crosses which were over the top and unsightly and unnecessary. It was the cradle to grave, multiple airbag approach.

The snow surface since the shelter was however good and firm. I was no longer sinking into it and could make better time. Soon I reached the pass and snatched the odd view of some foothills and the base of the peaks, but nothing spectacular.

The descent down the north side of the pass was gentle and pleasant. As I descended the wind diminished back to a force 4 and the spindrift did not chill my cheeks and freeze on my eyelashes any more. After an easy 4 km of this the dark shapes of Sylarnafjallstation formed out of the greyness. It was a massive complex of buildings.

Inside it was much more spacious, comfortable and organized than I thought. I got a dorm room to myself initially until 3 Swedes joined later. I had a nice shower, dried cloths in the drying room and even had a sauna. In the evening a pizza and an early night. Hopefully I would get some view tomorrow as I headed north past the remainder of the massif.

It had not been a great day. The weather had seen to that. Still it was nice to experience the weather also and feel some of its raw power. It could have been a lot worse as it was for the poor Karoliner army 300 years ago.

Distance 18km | Time 5.5hrs | Ascent 410m | Descent 270m

I had a good breakfast with an older couple who were also staying at the hotel. They were both over 80 and made an effort to go 10 km a day. During the winter this was on skis in the summer on foot. They were fitter than many 40 year old’s I have met recently.

I left at 0830 and went first to the shop to buy chocolate. Then I put on my balaclava, pulled up my hood and started through the snow showers up the snow covered track.

This track was cleared by tractor for about 5 km so people who had leisure cabins beside it could drive to them. There was still a deep cover of compressed snow on the track.

I went up past numerous cabins, their mostly turf roofs thick with snow, until they ended as the birch forest started to thin. Here the clearing of the track ended, but there was a scooter track for another 5 km to the edge of the forest. This was a godsend otherwise I would be making slow heavy progress in deep snow.

At the edge of the forest I met a young Swede dressed in white pulling a sledge with a rifle on his back-not a usual sight. We naturally got chatting. He was a fox hunter paid by the Swedish and Norwegian wildlife departments to hunt and kill red fox in the Sylan mountains.

The reason was that the Sylan mountains are one of the last bastions of the Arctic Fox. Indeed 5 were released here recently in a cross border cooperation scheme. Red foxes are somewhat bigger and better at coping in the mountains and are competing with their Arctic cousins to the latters detriment The wildlife departments employ him to keep the red foxes in check. So far this year though he had only shot 2.

He told me a bit more about the unfortunate Karoliner army I mentioned yesterday. Apparently most of the survivors of the storm also died soon after with gangrene induced by frostbite. Of the original 10,000 less than 1000 made it home.

We parted after a good half hours chat in the snow showers and I carried on to the treeline. There were frequent snow showers and some were quite heavy. The visibility was very poor but there was a line of stakes to follow. This made a huge difference as it gave me confidence I was going in the right direction and didn’t have to check the map, compass and GPS all the time.

After a couple of hours in the near white out the line of stakes veered north and dropped down into the upper birch woods again. The weather also improved and the visibility got much better. Ptarmigan which were sheltering under the snow took off as I approached.

There were two streams to cross which may have been open water so I made for the bridges marked on the map. Thereafter there was just a short climb up through birch forest to the large cabin.

This short climb however proved to be quite difficult. The terrain was knolly and the snow was deep. It took me a good half hour to complete the km up to the cabin. During this time the weather was very calm but as soon as I reached the cabin another heavy blizzard arrived

My usual cabin routine was made much easier since this cabin had electricity. There were electric heaters in addition to the wood stove. I lit the stove and put on the heaters and within a short time the cabin was warm and cosy.

After a couple of hours 3 dutch arrived. You can almost take for granted dutch are nice and these 3 reinforced that generalization. I got the blog out of the way and then we setled down to a nice evening. They had come from where I was heading tomorrow and said there was little problem but they didn’t see much.

It had been an ok day. The poor weather and lack of views took the shine off the day a bit but it was great to be back in the mountains and in cabins again after the last week of relative civilization.