Ski and Paddle Norway 2009

Distance 16km | Time 7hrs | Ascent 650m | Descent 120m

It was yet another beautiful day in stock as announced by the crimson and orange flash on the underside of the very few clouds in the southern sky. After a leisurely breakfast I set of at 0900. Within 100 yards of leaving I had a amusing crash. Luckily there was no one to see the wipe out.

I skiied east across Djupsvatnet lake for 3 km. Where I was to turn north. I had some mobile cover here so sent the last 3 days with pictures. I also ordered my lightweight rucksack just before the batteries went dead. I am having problems with my phone. Firstly it seldom wants to send emails, and if at all with much fussing. I have written many emails which I simply could not send. So please excuse the lack of replies to your emails and comments Secondly, my batteries always seem to be running out. The priority is getting the daily blog out and this seems to exhaust my batteries in the cold. I find the erratic sending of emails very frustrating.

The climb north up Mjolgedalen valley was just beautiful. With the sun at my back the whole valley ahead of me was bathed in sunlight. Huge cornices hung from distant crags waiting to extend further in the next gale until the weight gets too much and they brake off.

There were some old ski tracks to follow which made ploughing through 10 cm much easier, although generally the snow over the last days has begun to consolidate and freeze since the big falls some 2 weeks ago. The few clouds of the morning had now vanished to leave a dark blue sky over the white, untouched mountain wilderness.

As I entered a narrow part of the valley I came across some wolverine tracks. Wolverine are amazing animals. They belong to the Mustelid family, like stoats or pine martins, so they are predators first and foremost. Wolverine are the biggest members of this family weighing up to 20 kg so they are a formidable beast. Pound for pound there is nothing which could surpass them

These predators will easily kill a reindeer. Their large fearsome paws support their weight well on snow and they can out run reindeer on soft deep snow. Once they catch a reindeer they hang on until they have brought it down and killed it with their vice like jaws.

It is often thought wolverine kill for fun as they kill more than is necessary. However a wolverine will kill more than it can eat sometimes but it will cache carcasses in crevices and bury them snowdrifts for the future. This ensures a food supply when times are lean.

Unfortunately wolverine will also take sheep in the summer. For them a ridiculously easy prey. So farmers and herders of domestic reindeer, mainly Lapps, hate the wolverine and persecute them mercilessly and have done for centuries. Although protected by law now, some illegal persecution continues. However the wolverine is a very cunning animal and can often avoid hunters even on snow scooters. Consequently they are very elusive and I have only seen one in 25 years and that was in north Sweden.

I passed a couple of lakes before reaching the crest of a shallow pass at 1620 metres, perhaps the highest I will be on this tour. From the pass there was a barely discernible descent past a couple of tarns to Ovre Bjordalsvatn lake. The sun was occasionally hidden by surrounding mountains and in the shade it was bitterly cold. Cold enough to freeze my eyebrows.

The cabin was just at the end of the lake already in the shade. It was a beautiful cabin, better than I remembered from 25 years ago. Within half an hour I had lit the fire and melted enough snow for the stay. It took a while to warm the cabin up though as it was minus 8 inside when I arrived.

By early evening, when I went outside, the crystal clear night was a bitter minus 21. The constellations were plentiful. Cassiopia, the W, pointed the way to the north star around which everything revolved. The moon was becoming fuller again. Returning to the warmth of the cabin room was a delight.

It had been yet another fantastic day. Like yesterday I had time to enjoy it. Tomorrow is a very long day to Sulebu cabin, some 33 km. There is a half way point at Briestolen lodge, but I think it is closed, so will continue.

Distance 15km | Time 3.5hrs | Ascent 110m | Descent 460m

I woke late at 0700 and treated myself to a lie in until 0800; the time I should usually be leaving. Today was an easy day though. After a breakfast of tinned ham and a large tin of peaches (which beats porridge any day) I did my domestic chores in the cabin and was ready to go at 1000. I was sorry to leave Kongshelleren as it was so homely.

It was yet another cracking day. Just a few half hearted clouds in the south east. Otherwise deep blue sky throughout. There was a very small breeze which chilled the ears until the hat went on.

I had a lovely easy ski across West then East Volavatnet lakes. The snow was fast, the sun was warming the right side of my face and my rucksack did not feel too heavy. At the end of the lakes was a small saddle where I stopped to take some photos and dress up a bit for a long downhill run in the shade.

The descent down into Lungsdalen was quite interesting. While most of it was big open bowls there were some areas where there were snow filled gullies between the bowls. The snow was soft and deep here. I don’t think the low on the horizon sun had shone on these slopes since November. It was a lovely descent.

At the bottom of the slope I was in Lungsdalen proper. I passed a small stone shelter which I later found out was inhabited by an outlaw, Eivind, some 200 years ago. He sought refuge from his enemies in these harsh mountains summer and winter for 20 years.

From this stone hovel there was a flat 3 km in the blazing sun again to Lungsdalshytta cabin. The main lodge was closed but there was a small self service cabin nearby. After the usual tasks of melting water and getting the fire going I was ensconced. Again the cabin was small and cosy and took no time to heat. It was only 1400 and I was delighted to have leisure time.

A local couple with a team of 12 huskies dropped in on a days excursion from a village across the large Djupvatnet lake. Their dogs were quivering with excitement to get going again and were straining at the sledges snow anchor while we chatted.

I have been thinking a lot about equipment while I ski. I have a choice to ditch the rucksack now as things are flatter and go for a sledge. In theory this sounds a great idea. However they are cumbersome things and a nightmare in difficult terain like woods. Alternatively I could go even lighter. Change my rucksack to one half its weight and go with a lighter thermarest mattress will alone save nearly 3 kg. Another 2 kg can be shed from first aid and repair kits and I would be down to 16 kg. I think I will go for the latter option as I could manage that for many hours each day.

It had been yet another top day. That is 4 in a row now. The atmospheric pressure is 1024 Mb so I am confident tomorrow will be good for the short day up to Bjordalsbu cabin.

Distance 27km | Time 9hrs | Ascent 930m | Descent 690m

I had a late night organizing things, writing, charging batteries and phoning but I still did not sleep so well. I was still up at 0700 and packed before breakfast at 0800. I have an enormous breakfast. At least 3000 calories. It was like the breakfast of a condemned man. I then set of near 0900. I could not get away from the hotel quick enough. It was not such an easy going place as Haukeliseter.

I left in minus 15 and climbed the valley to the north of Finse. There were scooter tracks which led up to a small shelter at Klemsbu. This was not the best route as the other side was steep, but I decided to chance it. The map showed it was 1 in 5 and the advised winter route went a longer way.

As I reached the shelter the clothes were coming of fast. The chill of the morning was now replaced by the heat of the sun. I was down to a vest on top.

The views were fantastic. To the south just beyond Finse lay the huge dome of the Hardangerjokulen icecap. You could see it in all its glory from here just across the valley. The almost flat, slightly rounded dome of ice resting on a ring of steeper cliffs and crags.

From the shelter I continued up to Sankt Paal, a rounded hill on the crest of Hallingskarvet. Hallingskarvet is a well known landmark and mountain ridge in this region, and primarily to the east. It gives these mountains there generic name, namely Skarvheimen. I could enjoy the views from Sankt Paal in perfect conditions. Windstill and under the blazing sun. Even in my wool vest it was to warm.

The descent down the north side of Sankt Paal was not a problem. The steeper sections were easy to avoid as I sped down some 400 vertical metres descending diagonally across the remnants of small glaciers and snowfonns to reach the outlet of Ormsvatnet lake. The north side was in the shade and considerably colder.

From Ormsvatn lake it was a very pleasant ski eastwards down the gentle valley to Geiterygghytta cabin. It was closed and had no self service facilities. I knew this before and decided to go all the way to Kongshelleren cabin today, another 12 km. I felt fit though and in these conditions I was not worried about getting to the cabin in the dusk.

I bypassed Geiterygghytta and started straight up the hill to a saddle. It was and easy ascent treading between outcrops and keeping to the smooth glistening snowfields. About half way up I came across a trampled road of reindeer tracks and then a bit beyond a herd of about 50.

These were wild Skarvheimen reindeer and not used to human interaction unless they were being hunted, previously with arrows and in the last few hundred years with gun. As soon as they saw me some 500 metres away they were off. Initially they seemed confused as to which way to go but then they moved behind me.

I was going to the snowfield where they had been resting. All the outcrops nearby had been scraped by their hooves, removing the snow to get to their favourite food which is reindeer moss. This is a tennis ball size fluffy bundle of cream coloured lichen.

With the reindeer gone I carried on in the glorious weather cresting a small saddle and then descending slightly to climb into a significant gap in the mountains, one of them called Bolhovd. As I reached the saddle the sun set behind me and the smooth mountains to the north turned a shade of rose, then strong pink as the sun disappeared in a blaze of yellow and orange in a cloudless sky behind me.

I still had 5 km to go but I knew it was flat and the clear evening would ensure the light lingered long. The temperature fell quickly to minus 20, so back went on all the clothes again. For the last hour and a half I single mindedly drove towards the cabin not stopping. Indeed I don’t stop at all now except for the odd drink and today’s breakfast was still fuelling me.

At late dusk, just before the head torch would be put on and Venus and the crescent of moon were bright, I reached Kongshelleren cabin. It was a pearl Easy to heat, well stocked larder and once warm had a rustic and cosy ambience. It was only then I realized how tired I was. After a simple dinner I fell asleep in front of the fire. When I woke I was too tried to write and went straight to bed.

It had been another magnificent day. In fact today surpassed even yesterday as the best yet on the tour. Long may it last. Tomorrow should be an easy day to Lungsdalshytta cabin to let my body recover a bit after the last 2 days.

Distance 23km | Time 7hrs | Ascent 700m | Descent 530m

I had thought it would be a long day so was ready to go at 0800. There was a slight breeze which was bitterly cold. I was well dressed for the cold. It was still dawn when I set off but pretty soon the first rays of the new day were turning the mountain tops a golden orange. It all the promise of a perfect day.

I made very good time over the easy ground and after a couple of hours was at a junction where I could either go over Helvetes fjell, Hells mountain, or round an easier but much longer way via Finnsbergvatn lake. The latter route would have taken me past an archaeological site where stone age dwellers onwards have waited for migrating reindeer to cross a neck of water. When the reindeer were half way across they were ambushed by the hunters in small boats.

I choose the route over Helvetes fjell as there were tracks which went this way and it was easy to ski on them. The route over was very scenic and much easier than the map indicated. There were some wonderful views down to the plateau of Hardangervidda and also up to the Hardangerjokulen icecap which I was skirting round. There were lots of hare tracks up here.

The weather was now absolutely fantastic. Windstill under a deep blue sky with the sun beating down. If I turned south I could feel the sun burn my face. Generally I was heading north though. I climbed up to 1400 metres before descending down the north side of the pass to Midnutvatn lake. It was a glorious and lovely descent in soft snow.

January really had kept its best to last. It was a magnificent day. Easily the best yet on this tour. I was also making very good time. It was just after 1300 and I only had a couple of hours to go to Finse. The terrain was pleasant and easy.

An hour before Finse I met some other skiiers. They were heading to a cabin called Kraekkja where they would camp as it was closed. We chatted a bit and then passed. The remaining hour to Finse was a delightful descent in the full sun. Ahead of me was a long steep ridge called Hallingskarvet. Crossing it would be tomorrows task.

Finse itself marks the northern edge of Hardangervidda, the end of the third section. It had been very kind to me. Hardangervidda can be a vicious place in bad weather.

Finse itself was hosting a kite-flying weekend. There were 150 people attending and the only hotel, Finse 1222, was completely full. I managed to find a bed in a shared room. In contrast to Haukeliseter this hotel was not nearly so friendly or down to earth.

I had a great shower and then picked up my maps for the next section from the post office and dispatched the ones I had used. After a heavy supper I wrote the blog and did my washing which the hotel was very good about.

I had planned to spend a rest day here but felt quite fresh still. The busy, noisy atmosphere of the hotel did not sit easy with the peace and quiet of the last few weeks and I could not leave quick enough. In addition the weather forecast for the next days is a cracker so I will be heading north again tomorrow.

The next cabin, Gieteryggenhytta, is closed so I will have to go to the next again at Kongshelleren. Given the marvellous conditions and my improving form I felt up for it.

Today had been a really stunning day, I could not fault it at all. The hotel let things down a bit but it was irrelevant in the grandness of today and the completion of crossing the Hardandervidda.

Tomorrow I will start the fourth section, Skarvheimen. It will take about a week and take me to Tyin and the start of Jotunheimen. I have skied in the Skarvheimen before. In fact it was my first ski trip. I did it in 1983 together with a friend Jonas. Are you still eating handfuls of raw garlic Jonas?

Distance 15km | Time 5.5hrs | Ascent 520m | Descent 190m

It seemed the forecast for the next days is great and the atmospheric pressure is going up and up. It stands at 1020mbar now. Given this I did not have to hurry, but wanted to be at Kjeldebu cabin in time to enjoy it. So I left at 0830.

The lady who ran the hut camp I stayed at, explained the route to me yesterday. Initially it went through the rest of Garden keeping beside the frozen river. It was a good skiers path and although icy was easy to ski along until the next leisure cabin village of Maurset. Here the skiers track crossed to the north of the arterial, but deserted, road.

Maurset was a village of about 500 leisure cabins built up round a downhill ski resort. Generally the cabins fitted in and many were with log walls with turf roofs. Some however were quite incongruous with the environs. The ski track then left this village and crossed to the south of the road again climbing adjacent to the road up to a pass.

I made good time and was at the pass by 1100. Here I crossed to the north of the road for the last time and started across the plateau to Kjeldebu cabin. The ice of the last few days was soon replaced by soft drifted snow. My skis which had been noisily clattering across the icy surfaces of the last 2 days to my relief fell silent. My tendons tense from digging the skis edges into the icy surface could also relax.

The weather which was a bit grey when I started suddenly cleared up. I was soon in my element again pushing one foot in front on the other, gliding whenever possible, across the increasingly sunny plateau. At the end of Sandtjorna lake I came across a line of branches or twigs stuck into the snow. These “kvisters” are an ancient way of marking a route.

The kvisters are placed about 30 metres apart along a route. In the Easter time when ski touring is popular with many Norwegians these kvistered routes are set up between many cabins. They are a godsend as even in poor weather, up to a small storm, one can push on to the cabin if caught out. They have saved many lives in their time.

I liked this kvistered route because I knew they took the most sensible and easy way to Kjeldebu cabin. I could forget navigating and concentrate on the simply marvellous scenery. At last I was in skiing heaven. I have had many emails and comments where people have said how jealous they were. If only they knew the reality. However this afternoon they would have had good reason.

The sun was out in full force and I was shedding clothes quickly as I rose and glided down across the glistening white landscape. To the north rose Hardangerjokulen, a large icecap some 10 km in diameter. Its smooth surface coming to an abrupt halt at its circumference with a line of cliffs and crags. Between these crags flowed the occasional glacier which petered out quickly on the surrounding plateau in a series of moraine ridges.

Before I knew it I crested a rise and below me lay the cabins. It was only 1400 and absolutely marvellous to arrive with such good time. I leisurely lit the fire and melted water and then basked in the comfort of the self service cabins main room. It was too cold to go and bask in the sun outside.

It seems January has kept her best to last. Tomorrow is a very long day of some 30 km to Finse and it is perfect I have the best weather to do it in. I can now look forward to the wonderful green orange hues of a cold sunset and a cosy evening in front of the fire.