Ski and Paddle Norway 2009

Distance 0km | Time 0hrs | Ascent 0m | Descent 0m

The other 3 were up at 0700 and I followed them. The hardly believable forecast that the dry, crisp, clear minus 14 of last night would deteriorate to a mild zero with strong winds and a frequent snow showers seems to have come true.

Snow swirled around the lodge and it did not look very inviting outside in the pitch dark. The others ventured out for various tasks and came in covered in mild spindrift.

They were returning to their daily lives and appointments, but I had no urgency. I had done well in the past week to get here and thought my body, especially legs and hips, needed a day of rest and food to build up worn fabric again.

We said our goodbyes at 0800 and I returned to my bag and listened to the wind. It was great to have a day off. I spent it pouring over the route north to Finse on the north side of Hardangerviddda, still some 3 weeks away. I had been so rushed in preparation for this trip I had not really had time to do this before.

It seemed there were a string of some 13 self service cabins along the best route so I would not have to take too many provisions. The snow conditions could be difficult as there were about 5 days of mild snowy weather forecast. At least the heavy wet snow would not drift. Unless it froze into harder snow or neve, it would be demanding to plough through.

I also had the time to read a little about Gaukheihytta lodge. It was first built in 1868 and has been serving walkers, skiers, fishermen, and those looking after the animals on the summer farms in the surrounding mountains here, for over 140 years. The original lodge still forms the core of the buildings.

During this time it has had a number of hosts, who spent Easter and the summer looking after and feeding guests. In the early days the lodge was supplied by horse and sledge, but in the 1970’s this was replaced by snow scooter and a freight sledge. Wood, food, vegetables, paraffin, lamp oil, would all have to be brought in. The surrounding summer farms would supply some dairy produce in the summer months.

Gaukheihytta lodge lies on the southern edge of a huge plateau, scoured by ice sheets until recently. The area is riddled with small lakes in the hollows between granite outcrops covered in hardy, twisted mountain birch and juniper. It seems remarkable life survives here in the winter, but fish thrive under the winter’s ice and ptarmigan flourish on residual buds and berries.

It was a well spent day recuperating and relaxing in historic surroundings with the comfort of a stove and larder. In addition I had a good supply of books to browse on various areas in Norway.

Distance 18km | Time 6hrs | Ascent 480m | Descent 180m

After a wonderful breakfast and nice chat with Mikkel I set off quite late at 0930. I followed the road for about a km until a small track headed off to the north. This road was covered in about half a metre of frozen snow.

The track climbed through the trees passing small private cabins for a good 2 km until it arrived at a dam. Aseral kommune or council own a number of dams and it is their main source of income. They store the water until the electricity price is high in Norway or Europe and then open the sluice gates and sell it.

The reservoir behind the dam was frozen to a depth of 40 cm. Enough to drive a car on let alone ski over. I had no hesitation in setting of across it, but just had to exercise caution where streams might flow in.

I quickly skied across the largely bare ice to the far end and then headed up through birch and juniper forest. There were many fox trails and a few ptarmigan signs. Generally the snow was firm. Occasionally yesterday’s snow had blown into soft drifts.

The unmarked virgin route changes between the sparse forest and a row of interconnected lakes. Only occasionally were the deeper drifts a problem. Indeed I felt great. It was a superb cold crisp day, all the equipment was doing exactly what it said on the tin and I was getting used to hard work.

I made good time up to a large lake called Oyarvatnet. Here there was just a few km to go. However there were two short steepish slopes covered in thick soft snow which tested me and especially the short skins under the skis. In fact I spend a good half hour floundering around on each slope.

Soon I was crossing the last lake and rounded an island in it to spot the hut some 500 metres away. It was a gorgeous old log building. Yet still with triple glazed windows, a wood stove and bunk beds. I had a key which was not necessary as the previous clot had left the outer door ajar.

It was minus 4 inside and minus 11 outside. I quickly got a fire going and melted 2 buckets of snow. There was no mobile cover here so set off my tracker device. Then settled down to a tin of peaches from the larder shop.

Amazing there was a noise outside which heralded the arrival of three young Norwegians. I was very surprised to see them as they were me. They turned out to be extremely nice.

With two groups at the hut the fire was well stoked, many candles were lit and it became very welcoming. I wrote the blog then joined in card games.

It had been a marvellous day again. Apart from the two steepish slopes all was as I had hoped and expected with weather, equipment and myself. I looked forward to another 110 days of this, but know there will be harder times.

Distance 22km | Time 6hrs | Ascent 400m | Descent 70m

I slept well in the small cabin. When I woke there had been a change in the weather. The crisp minus 14 of last night was now a mere minus 1 and the trees swirled in the wind as the clouds raced across the sky.

Having tidied the cabin I left as it was getting light at 0900. It was a joy to shoulder my lighter pack. Those 4 kilos made all the difference. It was now a tad over 20 kilos and I felt I could cope easily with it

The road was deserted as I headed up the valley. Great granite crags rose on each side. Their exfoliating buttresses covered in pine. Everywhere small rivulets which flowed over the slabs had frozen into ribbons of white ice. An Alpinists dream.

As I reached the very small hamlet of Roysland a few snow flurries came. This did little to allay my fears as to just how bare the hillsides were of snow. There was plently of ice, just hardly any snow.

When I reached the hamlet of Breland an hour further along the empty road these snow flurries had joined into a heavy shower and there was a good 5 cm on the road. I passed numerous cabins beside frozen lakes on this stretch, all looking very pretty in their forest clearings.

After a quick 6 hours, during which I was barely troubled by my pack I reached Ljosland itself. The end of the snow covered tarmac for me. Ljosland is a small farming hamlet at 530 metres altitude. It also has a Fjellstue.

A Fjellstue is a venerable part of the Norwegian culture. They are old mountain lodges where generations of people have initially riden to, and now drive, to start their mountain walking holidays. There are many hundred Fjellstue in Norway. Most are at least 100 years old and are crammed full with old artefacts and rose painted furniture. The cracked log walls ooze charm and exude a warmth.

Ljosland was not so old but still had the charm. It also had a very friendly young owner and hot showers. In the first bit of hygiene this year I basked under the hot flow until my bone marrow was cooked. Then a clothes wash and a wonderful meal.

The young owner of Ljosland also told me that there was plenty of snow in the mountain ranges immediately to the north. Getting to the first of the mountain cabins, called Gaukheihytta would not be a problem. It should take about 7 hours max. I am eager to try out my new skis tomorrow and to see how they work with the short skins.

It had been another problem free day. Today was essentially the last bit of the first section. Tomorrow I begin the second section which is from Ljosland to Haukeliseter. This second section should take about 2 weeks. During this section mobile coverage will be erratic so updates could be few and far between. The map will still update though.

Distance 16km | Time 4.5hrs | Ascent 220m | Descent 110m

There was no great hurry today. I had to walk the 16 km to Aseral to catch the post office. If there was one I guess it shut at 1700. So I had a late start enjoying the rustic cabin before I set off at 0930.

It was bitterly cold as I walked along the road with the barely up sun not penetrating the avenue of trees yet. The river was cascading over the odd waterfall and these were plastered with huge globules of ice.

I reached the sleepy hamlet of Kylland quite quickly. It was nestled in the spruce forest where fields had been cleared. While it was basking in the sun the bare birch trees were still thick with days of white haar frost.

Just beyond was a turning up to a ski centre. Judging by the number of cars returning from the New Year break with skis on the roof it bode well that there was snow in them hills.

Then I arrived at the lake, white and frozen to a depth of 10 cm. It stretched away to the north and at the far end basking in the sun was the village of Aseral. With the craggy pine covered slopes on each side it looked very picturesque.

It was a good hours walk beside the lake to the village. En route Erik, who was also doing the trip stopped. I met him on Day 1 also. He was in a car returning to Vigeland to start walking having dumped his sledge in Ljosland The trolley he was pulling his sledge on broke. He was a young happy good natured chap.

Aseral more than made up for the disappointment of Steindal. It had a shop with post office and a nice kro, or upmarket café. The very nice lady who ran the café had a small cabin on the forest fringe on the outskirts of the village. And she would let me stay for a song.

I walked to the cabin. It was idyllic but very cold. I soon got a fire going and lit some candles. Within an hour it was cosy.

I sorted my stuff out and ditched a good half kilo of rucksack irrelevance and my indoor shoes. Then I separated the kilo of maps into two piles one to keep and one to post to Finse, about 3 weeks ahead. Then I bundled all the laptop and accessories and headed off to the post office. I must have burnt or posted a good 4 kilos. Hopefully these 4 kilos would be the proverbial straw.

After posting I returned to the kro to gorge myself on fried meat before returning to the cabin. It was cold as I walked home, about minus 13. The cabin was warm and welcoming.

It had been another good day. The weather was crisp and cold, the views improving and to top the lot a night in a lovely log cabin. I retired early looking forward to my lighter rucksack for the last of the icy asphalt to Ljosland.

Distance 19km | Time 5.5hrs | Ascent 240m | Descent 170m

I had a late start as I just wanted to walk the 17 km to Steindal. It looked like a large village on the map and I was hoping it would have a post office. I had decided to post the laptop back to Oslo.

If I decide to use a sled after Roros, in effort the halfway point, I might include it again. Otherwise it will join me on the kayak trip from May. In the meantime I will just have to make pictureless posts via my phone when mobile coverage allows. The map however, will continue to be updated every day via satellite.

There was a dusting of snow covering the tent in the morning. As I walked up the road past Ovre Oydnavatn lake flurries of snow came and went. It was getting more wintery. However, before long the sun was out again and the skies cleared and the temperature dropped.

I made easy time to the dormant village of Byremo past a very pretty hamlet beside the white frozen lake. I did not stop here but continued up the quiet snow covered road pushing to get to Steindal to camp nearby.

Steindal however was a major disappointment. It was a small hamlet with no facilities. There would be no coffee or chocolate, let alone a post office. Before I knew it I was through.

It was getting on a bit now and as I headed further north I started to look for campsites as I did not want to be caught in falling temperatures. 2km north of Steindal I spotted a potential site in mature spruce beside the river. After leaving the road and heading through the forest with my skis catching on all the lower branches I reached the spot.

Lo and behold at the spot was a small rustic workers cabin. A few of the windows were broken but it was open and on a side wall was a stove. I patched the windows with plastic and soon had a roaring fire going. I collected water from the river and settled down to a warm cosy evening. It was the first time I had been inside this trip and probably the first time I was above freezing point.

It was a very good ending to a good day. Hopefully the next village, Aseral, would have a post office so I could return some things to Oslo. Aseral was now a mere 16 km further north.