Day 205. Magnillen in Tingvoll to Bruhagen on Averoy

Posted by: James on July 24, 2009

Distance 26km | Time 5hrs | Ascent 0m | Descent 0m

I woke late as I did not finish the writing until late last night. It was already 0930. The whole Bruce family were up and eating breakfast in their cabin and outside. I soon joined them and by 1030 was ready to pack and set off. Colin gave me a fantastically comfortable mattress to use for the rest of the trip. I had been pampered by their copious food and good cooking. It was not their home but it felt like hospitality.

Karen and Kirsty were eager to use their new kayaks on a longer trip and decided to follow me down to Arsund some 6 km down the fjord towards Kristiansund. We set off around 1130. Colin and the boys followed in the inflatable.

Day 205.1 Paddling west towards ArsundIt was virtually calm and there was hardly a ripple on the water as we left. The tide should have been coming in but there was a good current carrying us west. We followed the coast and then crossed over to the more pristine island of Langoya and followed its south shore. Sometimes it was ice scoured slabs and sometimes boulders, but above both were the pine forests.

Both Karen and Kirsty were getting confident and one of them would blast off ahead while I chatted with the other or Colin in the boat. Eventually we reached Arsund after an hour and a half. We paused here for snacks and said our goodbyes as they returned to the campsite at Magnillen with the two younger boys now in the kayaks and eager to paddle.

It had been a very nice interlude with lots of banter, good company and it gave me the chance to repair things, rest and catch-up. I was sorry to see them go. I had to now paddle past Kristiansund to visit an ex uncle-in-law who had a cabin on Averoy.

Day 205.2 And then there were three as Karen and her daughter Kirsty came out in their kayaksFrom Arsund I paddled over the quiet Freifjord to the west side where there was a sound called Omsundet which separated the island Kristiansund was on from the island of Frei. It took less than an hour and I soon paddled past a headland an saw a number of large ships docked in front of me and the newer docks at Kristiansund.

Day 205.3 The oldest of the Hurtigruten ferries heading past the town of Kristiansund in the backgroundI avoided this area and headed down a smaller channel under a older bridge and past some wooden houses along the shore. When I emerged the other end of it I was level with the industrial area of Kristiansund on the other side and could look up past this to the more commercial and residential area of the town which looked more pleasant.

The old Kristiansund was completely destroyed in the war after a fire bombing campaign by the Germans. It was pretty much just the chimney stacks which remained after this onslaught and they were flattened to build the town anew.

I then phoned to get directions. It was a little south of where I really wanted to go but the total detour would only be some 5 km or so. Their cabin lay on the island of Averoy near the village of Bruhagen. Unfortunately so did the landmark I was to head for which was a huge quarry and pile of stones and a large ship loading.

I paddled over the Bremsnefjord towards this eyesore. There was a reasonable tide against me flowing north out of the fjord. As I approached the quarry and quay another eyesore soon appeared near Bruhagen. It was a monolith of a factory belching steam as it produced massive amounts of feed for the numerous fish farms up and down the coast.

I paddled past the huge loading bulk carrier ship and a few hundred metres after it met Frederic and Sissel on a weedy covered quay. We carried the kayak above the high tide mark and then walked up to their cabin up the hill with the minimum.

It was good to see them. I had a shower and then supper was served as we sat out on the terrace on the opposite side of the large ship and quarry which was just a few hundred metres away.

After supper we moved inside and chatted until midnight when I stared to write and they went to bed. It was a warm hearted evening with relations I had only met once before. They were very easy to get on with. The cabin had a lot of sentimental value to Sissel as she grew up beside it. Once the quarry has removed the hill to the north of them in a couple of years, and loaded it into ships she hopes the place will return to the peace and quiet it was previously. One can only hope.

It had been a short paddle in easy conditions in a mainly sociable day. I had been on tour now for nearly 7 months and one needs the occasional social day.

One Response to “Day 205. Magnillen in Tingvoll to Bruhagen on Averoy”

  1. Patrick Winterton Says:

    Hi James. Looks as though it is all going well for you. Regards to Colin and karen if you bump into them again. Hope you’re prepared for the post exped blues. I haven’t thought much beyond the Faroes and now need something else to fill my mind during the idle hours. Best of luck with the rest of the trip. Haven’t forgotten the donation,,need to pay the tax man first!