Ski and Paddle Norway 2009

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After a comfortable, clean sleep I was ready for the the typical buffet breakfast lodges like Haukeliseter offer. The huge displays include all the usual items plus many traditional dishes like goats cheese and pickled herrings in various exotic sauces. The breakfast at Haukeliseter was no dissapointment.

After that I was shown the washing machine and then settled down for a comfortable day indoors writing, reading and socializing. Haukeliseter is one of the oldest tourist lodges in Norway. It is also one of the busiest due to its location on the road. As such it is the gateway to Hardangervidda to the north and Setersheiene to the south.

Its original old buildings, now gone, were initially a seter or summer farm which also offered food and lodging for travellers and traders crossing the often inhospitable mountains between Telemark and Setersdal valley inn the east and the west coast. It serverd this purpose in the 17 and 18 centuries. In the 19 century it was expanded and by 1888 the first of the present buildings were built. It as later acquired by the Stavanger Mountain Touring Club

It of couse continued to offer hospitality to travellers, but its focus was more on mountain walkers and skiiers. Its old buildings are seeped in history and tradition. The logs in its halls have seen the likes of Amundsen who trained on Hardangervidda before his Polar exploits. Old wooden skis, wolf and bear skins and hundred year old farming utensils line its timbers.

Now an important arterial road passes its door. This road is often blocked for a day or two at at a time in the winter and frequently at night. On these occasions the lodge returns to its original purpose offering shelter to travellers.

In addition to travellers, mountain walkers and skiiers, it is also a kiters paradise now. Today up to 15 kiters were out in the strong breeze whizzing across the lake on their snowboards performing acrobatics and making 30 metre jumps. Some of kiters seemed to work here and used all their spare time being dragged along at terrific speed. It seems to be a very skillful sport as controlling these massive kites seems no easy job.

The weather forecast seems poor for the next week so I think the 6 days of the next stage, stage 3, from here to Finse, will take longer than that. The Hardangerdda is a huge plateau some 1200 metres high and when the weather is bad and the wind blows it is best to be inside. It seems there are a couple of young Norwegians going that way tomorrow so I might have company, which would be great.

Distance 19km | Time 8.5hrs | Ascent 470m | Descent 570m

I looked out of the window about 0600 and for the first time since putting my skis on in Ljosland ages ago, I saw stars. At last maybe the weather was on the change. By the time I left at 0830 the weather was changing for the windy whitness I was getting used to.

Within a half km of leaving the cabin I knew I was in for a hard day and that I would be lucky to reach Haukeliseter lodge without camping. I was wading through a half metre of soft snow, it was even slow going back down to Holmavatnet lake.

Once on the lake luckily the snow was more windblown and less airy, and therefore firmer. I skiied to the north corner where there were a few private fishing and hunting cabins owned by locals. One of these cabins just had the eves and chimney poking out of the snow.

There was a problem free short climb up to the next lake and I was lucky to pick an easy route. Occasionally it brightened up enough to see a km or two. Looking back at my lonely tracks I surveyed the hills. In some 40 ski trips in Scandinavia I don’t think I have ever see so much snow.

On crossing the second lake the weather deteriorated and I could not make out where I was to go so out came the compass. I reached the north shore and picked my way from boulder to boulder up it. The descent to Ingelsvatn lake however was difficult as the visibility was about 2 metres. I shuffled along in my skis barely making progress. Occasionally I would spot a rare boulder and using it as a reference make for it. After an hour I had made the km down to the level lake.

Crossing this last lake was relatively easy as I followed the shoreline with its numerous reference points. At the north point of the lake I descended down into a wide valley with a tarn in it. Again the visibility was terrible and the wind a good force 6.

At last, once I had descended a couple of hundred metres did the visibility improve. I then had a very pleasant gentle descent down a series of soft snow-filled smaller valleys and gullies until at last I made it right down beyond the tree line and onto Kjelavatn lake. Only now was I confident I would make the lodge. But it was already 1500 and I still had 7 km to go.

It was very heavy heavy work ploughing a furrow through the deep snow, first across the lake and up a frozen inlet, and then across frozen swampy forest which was open and therefore somewhat compact.

I still had to climb a small rise to the next lake when I came across a line of twigs. These twigs or branches are stuck into the snow usually later in the ski touring season as route markers. They are about 30 metres apart. In the immeadiate vicinity around Haukeliseter they must be put out earlier to cater for the odd hardcore holiday ski tourer.

It was about dark now but it was easy to follow the twigs for the last 2 km to the lodge in the twighlight. I got to the lodge about 1700. I was tired and soaking with spindrift and sweat. My clothes stunk. I had had them on for the last 16 days. Yet within an hour I had peeled them off and was shaving in the shower.

After a hefty meal I socialized for a good few hours with a very nice group of “kiters”. Haukeliseter is a Mecca for young kiters to come up and snowboard across the frozen lake being pulled by up to 15 square metres of kite. During this my phone was charged by the very helpful reception. It had a good vibe did Haukeliseter.

It was yet another hard day, made more so possibily by the deadline of darkness. Still I had made it without camping and had a very comfortable evening for my efforts. I had decided to take tomorrow off to wash clothes, eat, and socialise a bit after 2 weeks without seeing anyone.

Distance 0km | Time 0hrs | Ascent 0m | Descent 0m

Despite reasonably 2 reasonably long days in the recent past I was dissapointed when I heard the wind roaring outside. I had wanted to get to Haukeliseter today. There was no chance however of finding ones way in this blizzard. It was also snowing heavily and I think it had been all night.

So it was back to bed. I got up again at 0900 and decided I needed to find a way into the other cabin. I got dressed up for a wrestle with the blizzard and spindrift. I waded the 100 metres to the other cabin and started digging.

About half an hour later I had started to uncover the door and another half hour later had completely cleared it. It was lucky I carried a spade. Essentially to dig a snowhole if need be but also good to excavate cabin doors. I was white with spindrift. I went in an lit the stove.

I then went back to the small cabin, a hut really, packed up, tidied up and migrated up to the main cabin. It was already warming. I soon collected snow for melting and by midday was ensconsed. It was a wild day outside. I think it was snowing heavily in addition to the spindrift getting blown around, but there was no way to tell.

On relooking at the map I wil take a detour off the recommended winter route to Haukeliseter tomorrow. I would never have even considered this route had it not been marked on the map. This detour will go to the east acros some lakes.

The recommended route goes through rugged terain and a deep slot called Turistskardet. Last year a friend of mine, Ole, with whom later had the pleasure of skiing the length of Josterdalsbreen ice cap with, was also skiing the length of Norway this time last year. It was poor weather as he skiied through Turistskardet.

Suddenly and without warning Ole was bundled about and then came to rest. He was as if set in concrete. He dident know it but he had just been buried to a depth of 5 metres in an avalanche. That is the height of a house. Unable to move a finger and trapped with his skis, poles and rucksack still on Ole thought he was dead and passed out.

When he regained consciousness he found he had melted a small circumference around himself. Slowly by bashing his head and scratching with his fingers he managed to excavate some breathing room and free an arm. He then had to dig down compressing snow to get to minimize it to free his boots from the skis. He couldn’t so he undid the laces and bootless clawed and scratched his way to the surface. I can imagine the relief when some 9 hours later he emerged into the night.

He put then tent up and spent a couple of days recovering in it. When his strenght returned he had to dig down the 5 metres to retrieve his boots and skis. He then continued to Haukeliseter and after a short break continued north to reach Nordkapp as planned. It is only because Ole is so tough, even by Norwegian standards, that he did not panic too much and give up. Any lesser mortal would have been there until the spring melt.

Yes, so I think I will give Turistskardet a wide berth as a lot of snow has fallen in the last week and conditions are similar. This is one of the main problems with the lack of visibility in a blizzard, namely you cannot see what dangers you are flirting with. The wind, even gale force, is a minor irritation.

As I write about the wind I have just noticed that it had died off entirely this evening. There is hope yet for tomorrow. I am a bit concerned that I have taken so long with 6 weatherdays to traverse the Setersheiene mountains but they are one of the slower sections and I still have a very limited 7 hours daylight. In 2 months when it is flatter, I am fitter, and the weather is more stable I will have 13 hours daylight and increasing. So although my progress so far looks pawltry on the larger map of Norway, things will speed up.

Distance 14km | Time 7hrs | Ascent 510m | Descent 110m

When I woke in the morning there was still quite a strong wind and it was snowing heavily. My body was tired after yesterday and I decided to have a weather day. As the morning wore on however I was getting bored and the weather was improving. At 1030 the two trends crossed each other and I decided to make a break for it.

I eventually left at 1100. Much to late really but I thought I could make it. At least I could home in to the cabin with head torch and GPS as I did last night.

Crossing the open area by the summer farms I was saddened by the loss of this idyllic way of life. Soon though I was into the birch forest and any nostalgic thoughts of bygone times soon vanished in pushing my way through deep snow.

The journey up through the forest was only about 4 km yet it took nearly 3 hours. The snow was deep and the terrain steep and gnarly. Drifts were everywhere and bogged me down. I tried to follow a stream but it kept leading me into a dead end of a small frozen waterfall. After much sweat and effort I eventually climbed out of it onto the easier bare mountainside where the snow was firmer.

On reaching Sandvatnet lake the visibility was poor so I followed its frozen shore. Soon the sun came out however and lit up the mountains. I have seldom seen so much snow. The mountains were coated and dripping in it. It was a very easy pleasant ski across the lake.

Towards the north of the lake I crossed it and headed up Naustdalen. It was not long but quite steep and narrow. To make it worse there was a big open stream running at the bottom of the V shaped floor where I wanted to be.

After climbing up the lower half of the valley with some difficulty I reached a frozen tarn and gingerly crossed to the west side. This was less steep and avalanche prone. I went quite high to avoid the slot of the stream and for once it did lead into any difficulty, like steep corniced drifts. Soon I was at Holmavatnet lake, the home stretch.

On the other side of this lake there are remains of hunters camps which are 8000 years old. These wild stone age nomads must have come up here in the summer months to hunt reindeer and fish.

I just had to ski some 3 km along the frozen shoreline to the cabin. But it was already getting dark. Wth a km to go I got the headtourch out and using the GPS homed in on the cabin. It took a while but I got there at 1800.

There were 2 cabins. One small one without provisions but with wood and a large stove and a larger cabin which was half buried in snow. The latter looked much more comfortable and had a larder but I would have been digging a good hour to clear the snow, so opted for the smaller one.

Within an hour it was like a sauna. I had melted enough snow for water and basked in the warmth. Dinner was some dried food I had been carrying all the time in case I had to camp.

It had been a good descision to go when I did from Bleskestadmoen. Had I stayed I would have kicking myself when it brightened up in the afternoon. Despite the ardours of the forest I had a good day, especially the rare treat of skiing across the lake in the sun surrounded by mountains so heavily covered in snow.

Tomorrow weather permitting I reach Haukeliseter. This marks the end of the second section, the Setersheiene mountains. They are renouned for fickle weather and difficult terrain. The next section is Hardangervidda. A huge undulating plateau at around 1000 meters. It finishes at Finse and should take a week.

Distance 24km | Time 10.5hrs | Ascent 660m | Descent 1040m

I was up early at 0700 in the dark. I had to get ready by first light at 0830 as it was to be a long day. If I did no make the cabin at Bleskestadmoen I had to camp. The forecast said the fresh breeze would pick up to a gale in the evening. And it was just a fresh breeze as I set off at 0830.

The breeze was at my back as I went up 2 km of lakes to where a valley came down from the north east. The visibility was greyish and much of the snows features did not show.

There had been a huge dumping of snow while I was at Krossvatn cabin and even the vertical rock was plastered. I noticed that the streams was open in a few places. I suppose when you get half a metre with snow it must depress the ice on the lakes by a centimetre or two and this squeezes the water in the streams.

Going up this side valley was fantastic. The snow was new but already compacted by yesterdays wind which would have rolled the snowflakes until they turned into small balls of spindrift which when settled had little air trapped in then.

I skied quickly the 10 km across Kringlevatn, Midtvatn and Kaldevatn lakes which were each separated by a small gentle climb. As I skied across the uppermost lake, Kaldevatn, there was a flash of blue sky occasionally. I felt great. The wind, an easterly, had started to pick up now.

I then turned north west and headed up to a saddle. I was keen to get over this saddle before the gale arrived. At the pass the valley was squeezed beween 2 mountains and the wind was likewise squeezed. It was roaring through the pass. Luckily it was behind me. It swept a huge river of spindrift across the icy surface of the snow and I was carried along with it.

The descent was difficult because the snow surface fluctuated the whole time between soft accumulations of spindrift and a hard polished surface. Furthermore it was difficult to make out where they changed. In addition the wind bundled me along. It was probably a gale by now.

The sky was reasonably clear and down in the valley below I could make out Krokevatnet lake. There were some old summer farms here at 900 metres and well below the upper limit of the birch. I reached them quite quickly after skiing across the bare ice of Krokevatnet lake. A raven, acrobatic as ever, coped well with the gusts.

I was doing well. I just had a small valley to ski up and down again and I was home. I therefore took a rest amoungst the bare birch which offered no protection against the gale. I glanced at my watch and could not believe the time. It was 1530 already. I still had 6 km to go and looking at the map they did not look easy. In addition the gale was coming straight down this same valley.

I set of with urgency. The biscuilts and water providing some extra vigour. The gale was hurling spindrift into my face and buffeting me about. Still I made good time and climbed out of the trees and reached the pass in the dusk. The wind now was a good gale and must have been 20 metres/second.

I turned a slight corner and started to descend. The gale was now behind me which I thought would be an advantage. However it was so strong I had no control skiing. I got blown over twice so decided to take the skis off and walk. Even walking I got blown over once as I was propelled down the slope covered in hard snow.

I walked for a good half hour until I was out of the high side valley and had descended into the lower main valley and larger birch trees. Both these factors meant the wind was now greatly diminished. The problem was it was almost dark and I still had 2 km to go.

I put the skis on and dug out my headtorch. It dident punch very far into the spindrift. I got out the GPS and starting following it as exactly as I could. The trouble was the route the GPS was taking me was pretty much direct.

For a good hour I wandered through the birch forest going up and down steeply at times. Still the metres were counting down. I must have looked a sight wandering through the swaying forest in a strong wind with spindrift everywhere in the pitch black with nobody around for days. The metres kept ticking down steadily though.

Even the last 500 metres took about half an hour as there was a steep climb and drop, but at last with 50 metres to go I spotted a building. It was the one I wanted. The cabin at Bleskestadmoen

The cabin was a restored seter or stol, a summer farm where the farmers from the fjords and large valleys brought livestock each summer for hundreds of years. Sadly this practice is becoming rare now but the romane of it is still very much in peoples hearts.

It took 2 hours to warm the place up and get snow melted. I was too knackered to cook and wolfed down 2 tins of spam and 2 tins of fruit cocktail straight from the tin. These are found in the larder and paid for on an honesty basis. The system is seldom misused.

It had been a hard day. I knew it would be and with only 7 hours real daylight still I was bound to get caught out sooner or later. Still I could notch this experience to my bow and know I could handle it again. I was dog tired though.